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Discussion Starter #1
I was thinking a side by side comparison might help. Sorry, I didn't get pics after the install was finished. The last one shows the Cobalt control arm installed. Fit perfectly, no problems with getting the alignment set, either. I've now seen two sets of knuckles break right at the lower strut bolt in accidents that I would not have expected that to have occured. Probably still not an issue on a car that doesn't see the track, but a real good idea for Autocross and Time Attack cars.
 

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did you install them yourself...if so how hard and how long did it take u...if not how much did it cost u to install them...any notice improvement on handling??
 

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Shabodah said:
I was thinking a side by side comparison might help. Sorry, I didn't get pics after the install was finished. The last one shows the Cobalt control arm installed. Fit perfectly, no problems with getting the alignment set, either. I've now seen two sets of knuckles break right at the lower strut bolt in accidents that I would not have expected that to have occured. Probably still not an issue on a car that doesn't see the track, but a real good idea for Autocross and Time Attack cars.
Shab,

What's with the serious post. You feeling all right?
 

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Good stuff Shab. I have been thinking about weather the Cobalt control arm would work. I will be going the same route in the off season.
 

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wtf? shab not e-humping? no way...:D

those knuckles are 2x thicker than the stock ones...and good sh-t putting the cobalt a-arms in there, much stronger.
 

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we all have our moments....


Ive bondered this before also, i may look into it. How much do the knuckles cost?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Just to try and answer some questions asked:

Yes, I did all the work except the alignment myself. I had ditched the car into a culvert and bent the passenger control arm, outer tie rod end, and messed up the wheel bearing, so I ended up replacing both lower control arms, both wheel bearings, obviously the knuckles, the one tie rod end.

I also needed to do from brakes while I was there, so I stuck a set of GMPP drilled/slotted rotors on with the OEM pads.

The knuckles allow for more negative camber than stock, are stronger, and work with lowered cars better. My car is not lowered and I use it as a daily driver, so I'm only running 1 degree negative camber for now. I've been waiting to see what happens with the B+G Coil overs before I do any more suspension work.

The control arms look and feel better, but not much you'd notice unless you were pretty attuned to it. The stamped arms are not very good pieces, IMHO.

Now if GM would only get their new motor mount and transmission mounts released that are supposed to help with wheel hop, and I can get off my ass and figure out exactly what size spacer to use on the steering rack, I'd be all set.

Prices:

www.crateenginedepot.com

Their spring sale ends May 31.
 

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Pierre said:
Shab,

What's with the serious post. You feeling all right?
+1... next thing u know he'll be documenting a build... :freak5:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
bc3tech said:
+1... next thing u know he'll be documenting a build... :freak5:
Still waiting on my main studs to come in. I could post some pics of small block stuff if you guys want.... lol.
 

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Very nice Shab...I may end up looking into this as well
 

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Any problems with getting the bearing out at all? I have mine sitting on my floor and have read the instructions and they look simple enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
DWK5150 said:
Any problems with getting the bearing out at all? I have mine sitting on my floor and have read the instructions and they look simple enough.
You're probably gonna want a press to separate the hub from the stock knuckle. I had new hubs and obviously, new knuckles, but there is a small spacer between the two that I didn't realize I needed (It must be modified to fit the GMPP knuckles- 2 minutes with a cutoff wheel). Even after a good soak in penetrating fluid, the hub and knuckle were too corroded together to come apart without excessive force.
 

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Yeah the instructions show the spacer and you have to cut a tab off of them it looks like. Well I have a press at home so this migt not be so bad now to just get the time to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
DWK5150 said:
Yeah the instructions show the spacer and you have to cut a tab off of them it looks like. Well I have a press at home so this migt not be so bad now to just get the time to do it.
If you soak your bolts overnight, things should go pretty smoothly. I had the most trouble with the outer tie rod ends as I don't like hitting them too hard with a mallet, lol.
 

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is the control arm swap simple?

i need to get it alliged asap after the install correct?
 
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