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Shab, how have the GMPP knuckles affected your tire wear? I think I read somewhere that it puts the tires at a bad angle for daily driving.
 

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bump......
 

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shabv thats some good shit me like!!!!
 

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WTF Shab...I HAVE been out of the loop missing your serious post and all.....****!
 

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Bump for Shab.

Hyperion said:
Shab, how have the GMPP knuckles affected your tire wear? I think I read somewhere that it puts the tires at a bad angle for daily driving.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I haven't had any abnormal tire wear since I did the work, but I've only got about 7k on it since or so (somewhere between 7 & 10).
 

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Well, that's a fair amount of mileage. Do you recommend these to someone who doesn't erally beat on their car, just as a precautionary measure?
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Hyperion said:
Well, that's a fair amount of mileage. Do you recommend these to someone who doesn't erally beat on their car, just as a precautionary measure?
Well, I hate to recommend such a costly thing, but honestly, every car I've seen that has had "emergency response procedures" performed on it has broken the stock knuckles exactly where they are reinforced. It's not so much a safety issue, but when they break, they tend to take out a lot of things around them, like axles, tires, etc, etc.
 

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Just to try and answer some questions asked:

Yes, I did all the work except the alignment myself. I had ditched the car into a culvert and bent the passenger control arm, outer tie rod end, and messed up the wheel bearing, so I ended up replacing both lower control arms, both wheel bearings, obviously the knuckles, the one tie rod end.

I also needed to do from brakes while I was there, so I stuck a set of GMPP drilled/slotted rotors on with the OEM pads.

The knuckles allow for more negative camber than stock, are stronger, and work with lowered cars better. My car is not lowered and I use it as a daily driver, so I'm only running 1 degree negative camber for now. I've been waiting to see what happens with the B+G Coil overs before I do any more suspension work.



The control arms look and feel better, but not much you'd notice unless you were pretty attuned to it. The stamped arms are not very good pieces, IMHO.

Now if GM would only get their new motor mount and transmission mounts released that are supposed to help with wheel hop, and I can get off my ass and figure out exactly what size spacer to use on the steering rack, I'd be all set.

Prices:

www.crateenginedepot.com

Their spring sale ends May 31.
The LNF mounts are exactly the same location as LSJ, different durometer and configuration do zero for wheel hop. I have spacers for the rack they are easy, but the G6 knuckle steering arm should take care of some of that...the FE5 control arms are better than RL straight swap - I guess you did that they gotta be done in pairs as the castor is lightly different..(wheel base changes)
 

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some things to consider are this:the only breakage (non accident related) that i know of was in GM testing. Once. None in racing,(non accident related)
When my daughters boy friend endo'ed her Cobalt the knuckle broke at the strut bolt, nothing else was salvageable. I am thinking that if it breaks at the knuckle maybe it saves other things? Old Honda's break bottom ball joints daily, grabs the fenders and all that and makes a mess and Honda dont do a better ball joint...just saying :)
 

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I have spacers for the rack they are easy, but the G6 knuckle steering arm should take care of some of that...

G6 knuckes? What's that all about?

some things to consider are this:the only breakage (non accident related) that i know of was in GM testing. Once. None in racing,(non accident related)
I ordered LE5 control arms and was thinking about replacing the knuckles too. What do you think?
 

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so, im just bored at 5am.....searching for clutch kit prices and come across these things in the GM perf catalog......

recomend these for lowered cars?
 

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i would get them if you do a lot of autocross/road racing. they are a good upgrade, but probably not needed for 99% of all cobalt/ions. they are also expensive so the cost/benefit is a little high

like i said, autocross/road racing. or i would get them if i had nothing else to upgrade... :lol:
 

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LoL!

thanks for the input...
Im thinking about how ruff the ride is on these eibachs....i mean im beat to death in the drivers seat Id hate to seet what the suspension is going thru....But I guess youd only really need these if one broke or sumthing.....Im coming up with a price of $275 for the 710 part number which I believe includes both sides?...on gm parts direct.com....which thats not really a bad price for 2 of them...

oh and the other day I smacked an angled curb(i was texting...oops) I thought i had effed up the wheel pretty bad but it was fine actually....maybe i should get under the car to see if I cracked anything.....

Im also thinking about gettting some progress springs.....
 

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I doubt that price is for both. Be sweet if it was!

An impact from the side is probably the best way to break a knuckle imo...I broke mine in 2 places and bent an arm. I was still able to drive the car home (about 5 miles)...not recommended lol. Just bounced off a curb at 20mph. I just went and picked up a salvage HHR knuckle for like $40.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
I'm just not on here enough. I never saw Mr. Bristol's post from October 2008. So, it's actually been two years now that I've had them. I have not had any issues with my front suspension at all. I would recommend them, or the LNF style knuckles to anyone who has already broke a set, but, as is said above, it's probably not something the vast majority of people need to bother with.

That said, qwikredline did have a few sets available for cheap last I knew, so, shoot him a PM.
 
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