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Discussion Starter #1
I know a few of you have them. How accurate is it and what is the displayed horsepower and torque?

How functional or accurate is the Tach and do the shift-lights light bright enough to see out of the corner of your eye?

I'm really curious, as you can see.
 

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I have the G-Tech pro and can tell you that the things may sometimes be more accurate than a dyno costing thousands. What limits a Dyno's TRUE measurement of HP is the fact that the car is standing still in a garage without the benefit of the air induction from the car moving.

The G-Tech's effectiveness can be hindered depending on how straight you can actually level the thing but I say the horsepower (wheel horsepower) measuring is very close. I would say the best reason to use a G-tech is to look for variations or performance improvements gained when you add bolt-on performance parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks!

What about using it as a seperate tach and it's built in shift lights?

Have played around with this?
 

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there is a how to on the board on install of a aftermarket shift light. The same rules would apply for a extra tach.
 

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you can get the GTech RR, which allows you to use it's internal 2hrs of flash memory to store runs and download on your PC using it's PASS (Performance Analysis System Software). it costs about $100 more than the GTech SS, but will probably be more useful if you do a lot of runs with different mods.

Go to http://www.gtechpro.com/ for more info
 

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I just ordered a GTech RR from http://www.racespecialists.com for $275 and Free shipping. I did a pretty exhaustive search for the cheapest price, and this seems to be the cheapest I can find the product new.

Hopefully the place is legit. I will let you know.
 

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Got the GTech yesterday. I'm happy to see that the place was legit. $275 was the cheapest I could find it anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Let me know what the stock hp is and if the shift lights are practable in the RPM display mode.

Thanks.
 

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redlin-er said:
Let me know what the stock hp is and if the shift lights are practable in the RPM display mode.

Thanks.
Yes, will report back. I'm excited to go try it out today except that I'm home sick with the flu. :( I also have to find a nice long level stretch of street that isn't busy.
 

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Well, I went out and tested the GTech. I didn't have enough room to do a 1/4 mile, but I got a couple of 1/8th in. Not sure how accurate the data is, it looks awefully good to me... I still have my Nokian Winter tires on, so I'm a bit confused with the numbers as I spun the tires pretty good on each run. I didn't pay attention to the shift point lights because everything was happening so fast.

I'm having trouble attaching the image here, so I put it on my web site.

http://garyperez.com/redline.jpg
 

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alredline04 said:
that shows a peak of 215 hp right
any mods?
The only mod I have is a drop in K&N air filter. Also, in order to get an exact HP rating, you have to enter the exact weight. I could have been off a few pounds.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Gary Perez said:
Well, I went out and tested the GTech. I didn't have enough room to do a 1/4 mile, but I got a couple of 1/8th in. Not sure how accurate the data is, it looks awefully good to me... I still have my Nokian Winter tires on, so I'm a bit confused with the numbers as I spun the tires pretty good on each run. I didn't pay attention to the shift point lights because everything was happening so fast.

I'm having trouble attaching the image here, so I put it on my web site.

http://garyperez.com/redline.gif
Hey that's what I'm looking for!!!! I guess I'll have to go with the Pro version after seeing the cool data screen.

Let us know about the shift lights. :D

Thanks.
 

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Best way I found (around here anyways) to get an exact weight on your vehicle is to take it to a city dump (yes I know) and if its like the local one here, they weigh your vehicle upon entry and upon departure, I'd fill up the tank and go empty the trash in the back-seat hehe. But the local Dump here has a big ass scale that's visible to everyone once the car is on it.

Oh and great image/visuals :D
 

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kenwood599 said:
Let us know if you have any problems with the built in tach on the Gtech.
The Tach seems true except that now and then it will "blip" up to 6000 RPM causing it to flash. You have to calibrate it to the RPM of the car at idle, a high RPM number, and then a low RPM number. After that, you have to sit there and select one of 35 configurations, going through each one until you find one that matches your RPMs best. I found configuration 18 worked best, while most of the others wildly fluctuated.
 

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TXRLU said:
Best way I found (around here anyways) to get an exact weight on your vehicle is to take it to a city dump (yes I know) and if its like the local one here, they weigh your vehicle upon entry and upon departure, I'd fill up the tank and go empty the trash in the back-seat hehe. But the local Dump here has a big ass scale that's visible to everyone once the car is on it.

Oh and great image/visuals :D
I was thinking about that TXRLU, but then I started to think... If it's a town dump and the only weight they are concerned about is the "difference" between when you go in and when you come out, then what is the incentive for them to keep the scale calibrated accurately.

That was my only concern with the towns scale, especially in my town.
 

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Posted this in another thread, but more appropriate here.

I used the GTech to get a HP and Torque curve today using the technique the book recommends. If you go to the link, disregard the 0-60 time as it instructs you to launch easy and only rev it to 3K in first, then shift to second and floor it until redline.

This technique measures "net" horsepower which is different and lower than getting wheel HP from a dyno because the car is experiencing drag with the GTech, while no drag on a dyno.

http://garyperez.com/HP-TQcurve.jpg
 

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Hey Gary, off topic but isnt Beacon in Rockland County if im not mistaken, I just moved out here from Westchester county.
 
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