The clutch pedal is what connects your engine's transmission to the drive shaft. When the clutch pedal is depressed, the engine engages the transmission, turning the wheels. If the clutch pedal sticks, then the engine won't engage the transmission. This can cause damage to the engine if not fixed immediately.
Hard clutch and brake pedal
Hey everyone I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem I have a o5 with stage 2 tuning and a 2.9 pulley on the super charger and when I accelerate hard. My clutch pedal and brake pedal become rock hard and it's hard to shift for a little bit any one have any ideas what it is thanks for any help
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I'm thinking either the clutch master or the slave is getting stuck.
It's fine when you drive normal but when you accelerate hard it's like it goes from vacuum to pressure in the pedal you have to push it hard and then a couple times and then it goes back to normalI'm thinking either the clutch master or the slave is getting stuck.
My car also has the clutch getting stuck disengaged under heavy acceleration but the pedal feels normal. No idea what's happening car is sitting due to a leaking ZZP dual pass endplate, and I'm waiting on parts, it is also a 05 with stage 3 mods.
I have always had some minor issues with shifting and the pedal - what's normal - I really don't even know how its supposed to feel because I got mine at 10 years young.
I got my IRL with 28000 miles and I noticed that the shifting was somewhat different from my old ion 2
On the other hand I reason that the "drive mode" has an influence on the transmission process.
What I mean is if I am driving a bit more in the "performance mode" the shifting and pedal etc. all work in synchronization.
Better rpms and listening to the engine/exhaust the transmission is much more responsive .
Seems to be geared for that .
Driving in traffic at times seems labored and like an old bus sometimes
probably does not help anyone but just my thoughts
I got my IRL with 28000 miles and I noticed that the shifting was somewhat different from my old ion 2
On the other hand I reason that the "drive mode" has an influence on the transmission process.
What I mean is if I am driving a bit more in the "performance mode" the shifting and pedal etc. all work in synchronization.
Better rpms and listening to the engine/exhaust the transmission is much more responsive .
Seems to be geared for that .
Driving in traffic at times seems labored and like an old bus sometimes
probably does not help anyone but just my thoughts
Have you checked to see if the locking tabs on the "reinforced" plate (the panel that master cylinder locks into) are bent outward? You might not be getting full rod depression on the master cylinder. The ball on the rod or the socket on the back of the pedal arm might be worn also.
The PO told me that the pedal is busted and a nut is JB welded into where the rod punched through. So I have a new pedal,bushing, clip, and master to install but the weather has not allowed me to do it yet.Have you checked to see if the locking tabs on the "reinforced" plate (the panel that master cylinder locks into) are bent outward? You might not be getting full rod depression on the master cylinder. The ball on the rod or the socket on the back of the pedal arm might be worn also.
It's not hard that way is like it's full of pressure from the motor the brake pedal to if you pump them it goes back to normalHave you checked to see if the locking tabs on the "reinforced" plate (the panel that master cylinder locks into) are bent outward? You might not be getting full rod depression on the master cylinder. The ball on the rod or the socket on the back of the pedal arm might be worn also.
When is time to change the clutch on the IRL? What signs should we look for ?
It has a new clutch in it I don't think it has anything to do with the clutch it's like it is making to much boost and it's going in the brake and clutchWhen is time to change the clutch on the IRL? What signs should we look for ?
Slippage, and the smell of burnt friction material.When is time to change the clutch on the IRL? What signs should we look for ?
The brake problem sounds like a vacuum leak rendering the brake booster inoperable, but I'm not sure how that would affect the clutch master or slave cylinders.It has a new clutch in it I don't think it has anything to do with the clutch it's like it is making to much boost and it's going in the brake and clutch
So I would be able to smell the bad clutch after using it.Slippage, and the smell of burnt friction material.
Can you elaborate on the slippage part - Sorry for the lack of knowledge on the transmission and clutch
I think I read in the GM performance book about the slippage part but it was a long time ago.
that's interesting so you are saying that it is like a "side effect" or in other words, a consequence of the boost. Like mentioned before by Prolemare, the effect from a bad clutch can have a damaging effect on the "engine".It has a new clutch in it I don't think it has anything to do with the clutch it's like it is making to much boost and it's going in the brake and clutch
perhaps the good clutch or new clutch is "too good" for the "engine" - the synchronization is off with respect to the boost.
You also stated "when I accelerate hard" - is that from standing motionless in first gear or in 3rd gear going to 4th, for example.
I have the original clutch on my redline and after cleaning the throttle body and some improvements to the boost from changing the belts and hoses etc. I also noticed changes to the transmission or clutch. Sometimes the boost is enhanced and the clutch is affected. Unless it is the belt .. I don't know but it is interesting. It is like there is too much power and you have to control it. On take off I used to "chirp" on accident and intentionally takeoff with a scream but I have not done that in a long time. Unbelievable car.
The smell of a burning a clutch is distinctive. Kind of like the smell of burnt hair.So I would be able to smell the bad clutch after using it.
Can you elaborate on the slippage part - Sorry for the lack of knowledge on the transmission and clutch
I think I read in the GM performance book about the slippage part but it was a long time ago.
I've seen clutch material so shredded (not in an RL) it looked like some stuffed Brillo pad in someone's bell housing.
Slippage takes a few forms: shift flares, power loss with higher than normal RPMs, etc. One of the tests is to put the transmission in second gear and slowly let out on the clutch with your foot on the brakes until the engine stalls. If there is no noticeable "pull" from the engine before it stalls, the clutch is not engaging as it should.
thanks - do you think that it is bad for the engine to have anThe smell of a burning a clutch is distinctive. Kind of like the smell of burnt hair.
I've seen clutch material so shredded (not in an RL) it looked like some stuffed Brillo pad in someone's bell housing.
Slippage takes a few forms: shift flares, power loss with higher than normal RPMs, etc. One of the tests is to put the transmission in second gear and slowly let out on the clutch with your foot on the brakes until the engine stalls. If there is no noticeable "pull" from the engine before it stalls, the clutch is not engaging as it should.
"old clutch'" - mine will be 18 in a month
As long as it's still grabbing, I wouldn't change it. Mine's 10 years old.thanks - do you think that it is bad for the engine to have an
"old clutch'" - mine will be 18 in a month
thanksAs long as it's still grabbing, I wouldn't change it. Mine's 10 years old.
Look at your clutch pedal and replace your master cylinder, I just replaced the master cyl and the pedal assembly and the problem your describing went awayHey everyone I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem I have a o5 with stage 2 tuning and a 2.9 pulley on the super charger and when I accelerate hard. My clutch pedal and brake pedal become rock hard and it's hard to shift for a little bit any one have any ideas what it is thanks for any help
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
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