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Discussion Starter #1
new plugs,coils, fresh injecter/fuel line cleaning
gaps should be right coils and plugs have like 300 miles

the car thinks the battery is low but I'm pretty sure that it is fine, this will be on a start up a few minutes after a say 15 min drive

throwing a P06??, and P05?? code don't know the rest of the numbers cause my reader won't identify the last two
also P0300
sometimes the battery indicator light will pop on
while driving the abs light will come on and the the head lights will flash rapidly

on initial start it turns over almost immediately, to try to get rid of the headlight problem i can do a rolling neutral start, when doing that it struggles to start but when it does both times I've tested the headlights were then fine and no abs light.

sometimes on startup many misses in a row if raved up no misses until it is back at idle
misses sometimes when under heavier load

one thought i have is problems with groups, does anyone know where the grounds for the computer would be too?
also i guess the computer could be bad but i want to do that as a last resort cause of it being a zip tune which i would have to send out for a week

need thoughts asap
 

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new plugs,coils, fresh injecter/fuel line cleaning
gaps should be right coils and plugs have like 300 miles

the car thinks the battery is low but I'm pretty sure that it is fine, this will be on a start up a few minutes after a say 15 min drive

throwing a P06??, and P05?? code don't know the rest of the numbers cause my reader won't identify the last two
also P0300
sometimes the battery indicator light will pop on
while driving the abs light will come on and the the head lights will flash rapidly

on initial start it turns over almost immediately, to try to get rid of the headlight problem i can do a rolling neutral start, when doing that it struggles to start but when it does both times I've tested the headlights were then fine and no abs light.

sometimes on startup many misses in a row if raved up no misses until it is back at idle
misses sometimes when under heavier load

one thought i have is problems with groups, does anyone know where the grounds for the computer would be too?
also i guess the computer could be bad but i want to do that as a last resort cause of it being a zip tune which i would have to send out for a week

need thoughts asap

Just take it to the nearest AUTO retail store for a free code scan - takes 5 minutes on a non busy day
 

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Discussion Starter #4
.

both are on the list to do today, I was hoping that someone had experienced something similar so that i could prevent causing damage. what do guy think about the problem being the micro controllers in the relay
 

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Discussion Starter #6
owned a year and a half went to oreilies today, turns out much of the problem was the battery which is pretty astonishing, but makes sense. when on my way there my car went into survival mode, i lost power steering, my tach, headlights, and the boost was wacko. one new battery later and it seems that everything is gone. just minor tach light flicker. think I'm going to get the battery control module relay just in case. none of the codes showed up when i ran the checker at oreilies.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i think it might have been judging on the amount of rust from rubbing underneath it. have yet to go out for the second drive whats the likelihood that the battery conscience damaged the bcm relay?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
battery light still present intermittently misfires still present power steering stiff still but light problem and abs seem to be solved by it still haven't had time to disconnect grounds and sand them cause of finals but i did coat the outside edges with electric conductive grease i guess alternator is next to check and the ecu connector connections think I'm going to pay zzp a list to see if they can check a pcm to see if it is bad since the dealership won't do it cause of not having a cat what is weird is when i went o the dealership they did use there obd2 scanner for me and they did not find the p06 code that i found ?!?!?!?! makes no sense to me that they couldn't find it the misfires seem to happen more when the engine is colder valves perhaps? i know my oil is up for a change about 500 miles
 

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Yeah, my original battery was 9 years old when it finally went out ina blaze of glory........it totally messed up the car when I tried to jump it.

Replace a few fuses, new battery, and maybe you will be ok this time.

All I can say is that in the future, if the car won't start take out that 5/16 socket on a 1/4 inch driver and rip off that pos terminal off !!
...push start the old girl, and you should be on your way !!!

I will never try to jump a Redline again after that....I think it flucked up the samaritan's truck a little too. Stuff under his hood was smoking a little.

Or, just replace a battery every 5 years.

See ya out there...
TIMBO
 

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I wouldn't doubt that these R/L's have electric issues....the conversion used really thin wires....

also, suspect little animals knawing on them, even in heated and attached garages...

I found a whole bunch of acorns and nibbled wires between the Supercharger and the head the other day....

may explain a lot...

they use stupidly thin wires on these cars, not like in the old days when they used 10 or 12 gauge stuff.

Just my opinion...
TIMBO
 

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I wouldn't doubt that these R/L's have electric issues....the conversion used really thin wires....

also, suspect little animals knawing on them, even in heated and attached garages...

I found a whole bunch of acorns and nibbled wires between the Supercharger and the head the other day....

may explain a lot...

they use stupidly thin wires on these cars, not like in the old days when they used 10 or 12 gauge stuff.

Just my opinion...
TIMBO

see everyone, there are good reasons to leave your IRL out in the cold all winter
 
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