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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Alright....well I made just a little bit of progress today on my sub install while using the factory radio with my non-AAS system in my '07

First off.....flip down the rear seats and pull the plastic push pins out that hold the back shelf down. A "panel/trim puller" (like from Crutchfield) really comes in handy for taking those out.

Next you gotta take off the side covers. There is a little plastic cover.....pop that off & then there is a 7mm bolt under that. Then pull the panel off (there are 2 clips that hold it in the body) & then there are some tabs that snap to the lower rear panel as well.....make sure you unclip those.

Then I went the extra step & took out the lower rear panels as well to get everything out of the way.

Then I was able to clip the rear shelf forward (was too lazy to unbolt the seatbelts & get the cover completely out of the way) & have full access to the rear speaker shelf.



Okay now you gotta tap in the rear speakers for a signal. You're gonna need a Line Output Converter (RCA converter)....I had this one laying around already, but they're $20 at Best Buy.

I used some 3m line taps (I know some people don't like them, but they've ALWAYS worked great for me) and attached them to the stock speaker wire & then used some extra speaker wire I had laying around to attach them to the RCA converter.

Below are the color codes for the non-Advanced Audio System:

Right Rear Negative -- Light Blue
Right Rear Positive -- Dark Blue

Left Rear Negative -- Yellow
Left Rear Positive -- Brown




So connect those to the corresponding wires of the RCA converter. I ziptied all the wires cleanly too....which is a good idea. (This is before I put it in the hole where I mounted it)




There was a little hole in the back shelf already where I ran all my wires too & decided to hide the RCA converter in. There are already some factory holes there which I used to put zip ties thru to hold it down.
IMPORTANT...I put a piece of foam underneath the converter to stop contact/vibration which the sheet metal....so it's a good idea.

Then run the RCA cables to the amp.



Next.....gotta run the remote turn on wire for the amp. That can be found in the passenger side kick panel. Take off the trim (pull straight up), & then peel back the foam & you'll see a green harness.

The pink wire is what you wanna tap into.




Again I used a 3m Line Tap & then ran the wire under the trim/carpet to the back of the trunk, and then connect it to the amp. The BLUE wire in the picture is the Remote wire.

 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Got everything else hooked up today.....

What I'm using.....
2 JL Audio 10W1v2's
Rockford Fosgate 351M amp

I had 1 JL Audio 10W1v2 already & the amp. So I just decided to buy one more JL sub ($80) & then the box from Circuit City ($60) to keep my system on a small budget.
I have the 2 4ohm (single coil) subs wired together to create a 2ohm load at the amp......wired all the positives (of the speaker) together & the negatives together.

First thing to do was buy a battery post extender (for a GM battery/side mount post) to attach the power cable to the battery....that was $7. Hook that up to the battery:



Run the power wire to wherever your amp location is. I planned on running the ground to the battery's ground location, but instead I ended up using the seat bolt location on the floor. Really simple & was right by my amp (you're supposed to keep your ground wire short):



Made the ground & power connections to the amp. Then hooked up the RCA cables (which I already converted & ran yesterday) & then plugged in the remote wire to the amp.




Finished product:



EDIT: Newer setup:



Put the key in the ignition & it fired right up! I still gotta "fine tune" the adjustment on the amp as to how loud I want it, because that changes as you're driving & you get road noise.....so I gotta do that tomorrow & put on the end cap of the amp & still put all the trim pieces back together!

NOTE: I also kept my wires a little longer so that in case I need more trunk space or need to move the box I can slide it out of the way. Because if you have the cables too short (but have a nice, clean look)......than you kind of can't move it.

Any questions...let me know!
 

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thanks for the info,i am presently trying to do the same have it all done except for the power lead and was wondering where to hook it into,,now i know,,
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Cleaned up all the wires & the install is done!




BUT I'm gonna be changing the setup already.....just ordered something new a 1/2 hour ago.....should have it by the end of the week.....stay tuned!!!
 

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4 New 6 1/2"s and a 10" free air is actually on my list of things to do.

I'm looking at Inifinty Kappa 6 1/2s and the Infinity Perfect 10 with the Infinity 6 channel amp. I'll probably drop a line output converter behind the factory head unit, then RCA to the trunk, run all new speaker wire to the back panel and doors and then stealth in a box on both side of the trunk, 1 for the 10 and the other to hide the amp. The Perfect 10 is a Free Air/Sealed box sub, in a sealed box it only takes .3 to .8 cubic feet so should definitely have the room. Project will probably run about $800 for all materials including the speakers and hardware.

Like i said it's on my list of things to do, just need to figure out if it's before or after stage2.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Why would you run your RCA's from behind the radio though??

Didn't you see my pics of the wiring? You can do everything in the trunk (except the remote wire--which is in the passenger kickpanel)

Also....my JL 10W1v2 subs only need .625 sealed for each sub.....of course the box I had (I just got a new one) is gonna be a little bit bigger which won't hurt.

If you wanted to hop up their newer, bigger sub the 10W3v3....it still only needs .625 and that's a sweeeeeeet sub!

I had 2 Infinity Perfects before & they were probably the worst subs I've ever had....well actually MTX was worse, but they didn't have any bass to them......but it's your car

I posted this in another thread.....I don't know if you're already good with fiberglass, but here's a good how to for a box for the corner of your trunk:
http://web.njit.edu/~cas1383/proj/Glassing2/index.htm
 

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yeah i was checking that fiberglass site out and i wasn't 100% sure how i was gonna do the boxes but i know for sure now. I've done quite a bit of wood working so i think i should be able to hand le the glass.

as for the speakers, i'm not looking to rattle my trunk or anyone elses for that matter. I'm just looking for some good quality sound which i'm sure we can all agree these RL's do not come with. Hence the reason i'm basically wiring everything form the head unit back. I actually quite like the factory head unit, so i'll get a 4 channel line output converter which will still allow full functional fading and balance and since i am going 4 channels, it'll be easier to run two pairs of RCA to the rear then 4 pairs of speaker wire. Less mess, cleaner look.

After reading that fiber page, this might actually end up in front of the stage 2.
 

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just a quick observation.. it's cheaper to get 6ft of speed wire and run from behind the radio right to the amp and use the speaker input harness with the sub rather then tap the rear speakers and convert them over to an RCA signal.. speed wire will also include a remote wire as well so you make all your taps behind the deck and then run one wire (which contains all the wires needed) to the back and go right into the sub.. i've used speed wire on all my stock radio/amp installs.. works great b/c if it doesn't work you only have to check one spot for connections.. not 3 or 4 to make sure everything is tight.. plus the signal is clearer directly from the deck
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I had the LOC already & that's what I've always used & been familiar with.

Quick search of the forums, before I did the install, just said to tap the rear speakers to hook it up....so that's what I did to keep it simple.


What's "speed wire" though???
Never heard of it
 

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I just tapped the wires before they go into the amp... same difference.
 

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Snobrbrdan,

what do you think about tapping into a different wire for the remote turn on?

I was playing with some wiring yesterday, and tapped into the rear cigarette lighter. I dunno if that will introduce some funny ground noise, but it works as a switched 12V power (not to be confused with the front cig lighter, which is always on).

I don't have anything hooked up permanently (just wired up my old setup to test it and then tore it out) but the amp turned on and was working well for the 10 minutes i had it going.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Hmmm...that's a possibility, BUT the cig. lighter might stay on for a certain amount of time if the car is off (some cars do that--I don't know about the RL for sure cuz I haven't ever used the cig. lighters). The remote turn on goes/works directly with the radio....so it's working just like if you had an aftermarket HU in there.

It's not gonna hurt anything if the amp was still on, but I'm the kind of guy that wants it working right & wants the amp off when I get out of the car...u know?

Do you have the AAS system or no?? I mean it's REALLY REALLY REALLY frickin' simple to run it from the passenger kick panel. Just tap into it & run the wire under the trim panel....doesn't really get any easier than that.

Plus there isn't any noise or interference with that remote turn on too. This was by far the easiest (OEM) stereo to add subs to for me.
 

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snobrdrdan said:
Hmmm...that's a possibility, BUT the cig. lighter might stay on for a certain amount of time if the car is off (some cars do that--I don't know about the RL for sure cuz I haven't ever used the cig. lighters). The remote turn on goes/works directly with the radio....so it's working just like if you had an aftermarket HU in there.

It's not gonna hurt anything if the amp was still on, but I'm the kind of guy that wants it working right & wants the amp off when I get out of the car...u know?

Do you have the AAS system or no?? I mean it's REALLY REALLY REALLY frickin' simple to run it from the passenger kick panel. Just tap into it & run the wire under the trim panel....doesn't really get any easier than that.

Plus there isn't any noise or interference with that remote turn on too. This was by far the easiest (OEM) stereo to add subs to for me.
I don't have AAS. If I did, I would have just taken the remote on from that amp.

The cig lighter turns on/off with the radio. On with the key, off with the doors opening.

The only thing I'm halfway worried about is the interference. I think I'll leave it as-is for now, and if I get some interference (say, if I plug in my phone charger) then I'll run it up front. It just seemed like a slick way to run a short wire.

Also, since you found a neat little place to put the line level converter, you didn't happen to see a cool place for a distribution block, did you? I'll be running an amp for my front speakers as well, so I need a good place to hide that.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
It's totally up to.....but I would just run it to the passenger kick panel....that way you can just tuck the wire under the carpet and/or trim panel.

If you use the cigarette lighter, then you gotta run the remote under the carpet/rear seat instead which might just be a tad harder, but that's your call


Hmmm...where are you gonna run/hide your amps at??

The distribution block......It could go anywhere, but I'd just run that by/off the battery (right by the spare tire) and then run the power cables from there.....there really isn't another free spot that I can think of. That's what'd I do though.
 

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I'm thinking of mounting them to the rear seat. It seems like the easiest, most out of the way place. It is either that or make an amp rack of sorts in the opposite corner from my sub.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I personally wouldn't mount the amps to the back of the seat, but that's me

Reason being that if you ever wanna fold your seats down to haul something then you got your amps in the way (wouldn't wanna scratch them). Plus your wires are showing, unless you run them hidden (then it's fine).

I'd suggest an amp rack in the corner or something & put some plexiglass over it to show it off.......sounds more difficult (obviously), but it'll look better

Do it right the first time & you'll be happier instead of redoing it later down the road

Again...it's your car & do what you want....just my 2 cents
 
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