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Well, I have yet again changed my audio plans...so the amp and sub will have to wait anyways.

I had thought about the amps being in the way, but the amount of times I fold my seats down is small, and when I do I'm usually just putting luggage over them or something. But maybe I'll just do an amp rack instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Yeah I guess it also depends on how you use your car

If you never use the trunk, then load that shit up with a custom box & subs & amps.....lol

But either way.....post some pics if/whenever you do anything
 

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does using a line out convert draw power??? i herd that it does. cant remember the post #. and i have yet to install my system.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
According to zfactor, technically yes (and he's a audio guru). Very minimal though & it just converts the speaker signals to an RCA cable output.

If you do what I did.....it's not gonna matter though. My stereo bumps & sounds awesome. Even if I was keeping the car longer (it's a 2 year lease) or was buying it.....I'd still keep my current setup. Looks all factory & no one is gonna be busting into my car to steal it.

It didn't cost me much at all......I got the subs for bass....tweeters for highs....the stock speakers fill out the mids I guess (they suck)....keep the color of the factory dash color (ugly orange) & I can plug in my iPod.

No complaints! ;)
 

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ok im gona try and do it. got a LOC from best buy. and i have the power wires and grounds and speaker wire. but no line taps. gonna shoot u a pm.
 

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the only reason you should use the rca converter is if your running the stock deck as it does not have rca outputs on the back of it.

aftermarket decks: use the rca outs on the deck, it puts out way cleaner sound and way more power to the amp, (you will notice a difference)


i have always tapped my remote turn on wire (for the amp) right off of the switched 12v wire for the deck. the amp does not draw anything on this line just uses it as a sensor to turn the amp on/off.

that way all the wires you need come right from the deck! clean and easy install.
on the rl i ran both power and ground right to the battery (why not, its right there!) no better way to get cleaner uninterrupted noise free power.
i also wired a cap in place to keep my lights from flickering/dimming. i needed one as i am running 1600 watts total power. most systems are ok without since the rl has a 120 amp alternator.
 

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yes for now im gonna keep using the stock head unit with a amp controler run up front. i just wanted to make sure i could follow the guide for the non AAS systems that is posted
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Xaven.....

Well you can tap into the rear speakers still (like I did) and then hook up those connections to the Line Output Converter and that'll create your RCA jacks for you. The wire colors on the rear speakers are different though IIRC since you have the AAS system though. So you'd have to figure those out or find a wiring diagram.

Then run a power wire to the battery and then a ground to bare metal spot or the battery (if you wish--supposed to keep ground wires short)

BUT for the remote turn on wire...you'll just find the pink wire on the harness that plugs into the amp and tap into it there (instead of the passenger foot well like I did)

Make sense???
 

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here's a layman's question . . . why can't i just swap out the amp for a better one? besides the lack of mounting?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
that's been asked a bunch of times too, and I think you can (speakers are all 2ohms though w/AAS IIRC)

there might have been a reason why not, but I totally forget right now

do a search
 

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Super Excellent write up! I bow down to you Dan....

One question for you. Did your line output converter have a ground and did you have to ground it. I have everything hooked up but I am getting really bad crackling from my sub. I hooked it up to another sub and I get the same distortion.

So its either my amp or my line converter. I got the amp from my brother and he said it worked when he took it out. Its a cheap old Jensen but it was plenty to power the sub I bought. I have a Fosgate Punch 500 that I am going to hook up today to see if I have the same problem.


NEVERMIND. It was the amp. Dam that sucks because my punch is way too big for this 10" poineer i have....

I could always throw in my Orion 12" and bump like I did when I was 20!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #34
ebristol said:
Super Excellent write up! I bow down to you Dan....

One question for you. Did your line output converter have a ground and did you have to ground it. I have everything hooked up but I am getting really bad crackling from my sub. I hooked it up to another sub and I get the same distortion.

So its either my amp or my line converter. I got the amp from my brother and he said it worked when he took it out. Its a cheap old Jensen but it was plenty to power the sub I bought. I have a Fosgate Punch 500 that I am going to hook up today to see if I have the same problem.


NEVERMIND. It was the amp. Dam that sucks because my punch is way too big for this 10" poineer i have....

I could always throw in my Orion 12" and bump like I did when I was 20!!!
My write-ups are always good! ;)

Yeah they provide a ground on the LOC's, but I've never had to use it though.

I'd use the Punch amp & just turn down the gain so that you don't blow it & you should be fine
OR
Just buy another 10" sub & have 2 subs and then bridge the amp (if needed)....that's what I did! :)
 

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snobrdrdan said:
I'd use the Punch amp & just turn down the gain so that you don't blow it & you should be fine
OR
Just buy another 10" sub & have 2 subs and then bridge the amp (if needed)....that's what I did! :)
I used the punch amp. I have the bass gain all the way down on the amp and one click away from the min on the headunit. The treble is set one click away from the max on the headunit and I had to adjust the Fad toward the front about 4 clicks from the center.

I used a sub out of the cobalt. I got it cheap off of cobaltss. I'll probably start a new thread and share some pics.

Thanks for your help.
 

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ebristol said:
I used the punch amp. I have the bass gain all the way down on the amp and one click away from the min on the headunit. The treble is set one click away from the max on the headunit and I had to adjust the Fad toward the front about 4 clicks from the center.

I used a sub out of the cobalt. I got it cheap off of cobaltss. I'll probably start a new thread and share some pics.

Thanks for your help.
I have the stock 'balt sub too.. it can handle a far amount of power [I have my sub on max gain but my deck has it's setting turned down to basically the minimum... the way I see it, it's easier to alter settings in the car than in the trunk..haha]
 

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Discussion Starter #37
ebristol said:
I used a sub out of the cobalt. I got it cheap off of cobaltss. I'll probably start a new thread and share some pics.

Thanks for your help.
I thought the Cobalt sub didn't fit in our car???

How do you have it attached?? I'm curious to see how this looks....post some pics up!!
 

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Discussion Starter #38
XeroState said:
[I have my sub on max gain but my deck has it's setting turned down to basically the minimum... the way I see it, it's easier to alter settings in the car than in the trunk..haha]
I do that too.....if you need more bass, just turn up the adjustment on the HU....waaaay easier :)
 

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snobrdrdan said:
I thought the Cobalt sub didn't fit in our car???

How do you have it attached?? I'm curious to see how this looks....post some pics up!!
The "formed-plastic" housing will not fit, the sub itself is is just a 10" sub that can be mounted in any 10" sub box/custom box.

Trust me, I tried and even thought about smashing the box to make it fit...haha
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Ohhh...just the sub....I get it

I was gonna say...the trunks are totally different styles
 
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