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Yes I apologize another question about these darn switches but I have yet to see anybody have this problem yet. For the past couple months my redline hasnt been able to start yesterday I replaced the clutch pedal and clutch master cylinder along with a new clutch switch, I thought the clutch switch was the problem but still didn't turn over so I went to the car parts store bought a switch put it in and my car wont recognize the new switch and won't go into the learn process. the passlock light on the dash won't blink or even stay on. does anybody know why it won't recognize the new switch?
 

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are you getting power where it's needed? I see you live up north where they use salt... how are all your grounds? you'd be surprised what gets fucked up by grounds oxidizing.

your display isn't saying "...pwr str... coolant... service vehicle..." is it?
 

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So I have been dealing with the same issues kdxkidd22. I've been through many switches and they seem to be a temporary fix. Today I was replacing the switch yet again, and when I put the new switch in I had no power at all. Usually the new switch would require a pass lock relearn but this time it would not work at all. So I grabbed the green connector and started jiggling it and I found that the issue was in the connector itself. The issue is that the corrosion on the pins inside of the connector cause incorrect resistance and a very poor connection, and the reason why the switch being replaced seems to fix the issue is because it scrapes off enough of the oxidation to temporarily restore proper resistance, that is until the pins continue to oxidize and cause the same issue. No pass lock relearn, light or any of that shit, just a click when turning over. Improper resistance will disable the starter but leave everything else functioning normally, which is why I am able to coast start the vehicle and it run perfectly fine. The connector is made by AC Delco. ACDelco PT2261 Switch-Ignition Connector. It's $80 but to me it's worth a shot. I will be soldering gold connector pins onto the wires because the original ones are tin, which oxidize easily. By the way, this has been a three year struggle for me and everyone seems to know how to fix the issue but nothing seems to work. Without magnification it is hard to see the corrosion on the pins inside of the connector, but you can see it with a magnifying glass. Technically you could just take the pins out of the connector and clean them, but I snapped the connector trying to do that, and the issue is the shitty tin pins.
 

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Did you ever have the ignition switch replaced by warranty? You know there is a huge recall on them and they replace them for free.
 

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So I have been dealing with the same issues kdxkidd22. I've been through many switches and they seem to be a temporary fix. Today I was replacing the switch yet again, and when I put the new switch in I had no power at all. Usually the new switch would require a pass lock relearn but this time it would not work at all. So I grabbed the green connector and started jiggling it and I found that the issue was in the connector itself. The issue is that the corrosion on the pins inside of the connector cause incorrect resistance and a very poor connection, and the reason why the switch being replaced seems to fix the issue is because it scrapes off enough of the oxidation to temporarily restore proper resistance, that is until the pins continue to oxidize and cause the same issue. No pass lock relearn, light or any of that shit, just a click when turning over. Improper resistance will disable the starter but leave everything else functioning normally, which is why I am able to coast start the vehicle and it run perfectly fine. The connector is made by AC Delco. ACDelco PT2261 Switch-Ignition Connector. It's $80 but to me it's worth a shot. I will be soldering gold connector pins onto the wires because the original ones are tin, which oxidize easily. By the way, this has been a three year struggle for me and everyone seems to know how to fix the issue but nothing seems to work. Without magnification it is hard to see the corrosion on the pins inside of the connector, but you can see it with a magnifying glass. Technically you could just take the pins out of the connector and clean them, but I snapped the connector trying to do that, and the issue is the shitty tin pins.
Hi Bdavies,

I'm sorry to hear that you're experiencing reoccurring ignition concerns. I would be happy to research your vehicle to see if you have any recalls open. Please DM me your VIN if you would like to proceed.

Regards,
Vivian K.
GM Customer Care
 
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