Saturn ION RedLine Forums banner
1 - 20 of 40 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
WOW did you have trouble fitting your install tool in there or did you just want to see what the blower looked like off the car.


how dose the tentioner work on this car it is hex head do you just tighten the bolt to swing it so you can take the belt off


brett
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,887 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
1quick98_gs said:
WOW did you have trouble fitting your install tool in there or did you just want to see what the blower looked like off the car.


how dose the tentioner work on this car it is hex head do you just tighten the bolt to swing it so you can take the belt off


brett
yeah you have two options to get the pulley off, take off the blower or take off the alternator.

The tensioner you just push down on, nothing to unscrew. I just wrapped a wrench with a rag and pried down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
I have a puller from my regal that looked like it would fit in there with out dooing any thing
like the one on this web sight also check out there inter changeable pullys http://www.intense-racing.com/ do a serch for gtp there are manny other systems that will work on our cars I personaly have done around 40 or 50 pully swaps on regals and gtp's


brett
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,887 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
1quick98_gs said:
I have a puller from my regal that looked like it would fit in there with out dooing any thing
like the one on this web sight also check out there inter changeable pullys http://www.intense-racing.com/ do a serch for gtp there are manny other systems that will work on our cars I personaly have done around 40 or 50 pully swaps on regals and gtp's


brett
I think it would be close, stick it in there and see if you can get around it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,233 Posts
np on the puller but I still dont understand how exactly the installer works. What is it attached to in the picture (filename:image3.jpg) Did you thread your sc shaft? The one picture (image5.jpg) looks like someone was hitting on the DUB hub with a hammer, is that how it's installed?
WOT
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,887 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
WopOnTour said:
np on the puller but I still dont understand how exactly the installer works. What is it attached to in the picture (filename:image3.jpg) Did you thread your sc shaft? The one picture (image5.jpg) looks like someone was hitting on the DUB hub with a hammer, is that how it's installed?
WOT
It is screwed into the shaft. It is already threaded. There is a little plastic piece covering it stock. You don't use a hammer on it. The tool has a bolt that slides down and it compresses the pulley onto the shaft. What you see in image 5 is grease, not hammer strikes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,233 Posts
clownhair said:
It is screwed into the shaft. It is already threaded. There is a little plastic piece covering it stock. You don't use a hammer on it. The tool has a bolt that slides down and it compresses the pulley onto the shaft. What you see in image 5 is grease, not hammer strikes.
Ahh, thanks for clarifying that - the pic looks like damage. Threaded already? huh.. guess I've never really looked t it that closely.
So what size is that pully? (sorry if I missed that) AND did you have to replace the belt?
WOT
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,887 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
WopOnTour said:
Ahh, thanks for clarifying that - the pic looks like damage. Threaded already? huh.. guess I've never really looked t it that closely.
So what size is that pully? (sorry if I missed that) AND did you have to replace the belt?
WOT
pulley is 3.25" and I am using the stock belt.

Also I am able to make 14 PSI without any other mods!! Right now as it sits the car will hit 14 psi. Here is the thing, at about 2-300 rpms before redline the bypass must open because it drops to about 10 ish.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,233 Posts
clownhair said:
pulley is 3.25" and I am using the stock belt.

Also I am able to make 14 PSI without any other mods!! Right now as it sits the car will hit 14 psi. Here is the thing, at about 2-300 rpms before redline the bypass must open because it drops to about 10 ish.
Sounds about right
Here's whats in the FSM word for word- WopOnTour
Supercharger boost pressure is regulated to prevent engine and drive train damage. When the engine is operating under high boost conditions, the powertrain control module (PCM) limits boost pressure to 83 kPa (12 psi). The PCM disables boost under the following conditions:

• When reverse gear is selected
• When the engine coolant temperature (ECT) is excessively high
• When drivetrain abuse is detected
• When the vehicle is decelerating
• If an intercooler pump failure is detected
• If the intake air temperature (IAT) sensor 2 becomes excessively high
• Under heavy load in first and second gear at engine speeds above 5,800 RPM

The PCM controls boost pressure by using the boost control solenoid. The boost control solenoid is normally an open valve. Under most conditions, the PCM commands the boost control solenoid to operate at a 99-100 percent duty cycle. This keeps the solenoid valve closed and allows only inlet vacuum to control the position of the bypass valve. At idle, engine vacuum is applied to the upper side of the bypass valve actuator, counteracting spring tension to hold the bypass valve open.

As engine load is increased, engine vacuum is decreased, causing the spring in the bypass valve actuator to overcome the applied vacuum, closing the bypass valve and allowing the boost pressure to increase. The bypass valve starts to close when the vacuum measures 250 mm Hg (10 in Hg) and is fully closed at 90 mm Hg (3.5 in Hg). When reduced boost pressure is desired, the PCM commands the boost control solenoid to operate at a 0 percent duty cycle. This opens the solenoid valve and allows boost pressure to enter the bypass valve actuator at the lower side to counteract the spring tension, opening the bypass valve and recirculating excess boost pressure back into the supercharger inlet.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,887 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just did the Clowns Vaccuum mod and it holds boost all the way now. This made a huge difference! The car pulls very very nicely. :D I lost the serial cable to upload my wideband logs and am ordering a new one, as soon as I get it I will give you guys the logs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,574 Posts
Awesome man!! I want one now!!!!!1 :D


How long was the total time of install on the pulley?

Also, I haven't been on here much lately so I may have missed the "Clown's Vaccuum mod" thread. Enlighten me, if you would be so kind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,233 Posts
clownhair said:
Just did the Clowns Vaccuum mod and it holds boost all the way now. This made a huge difference! The car pulls very very nicely. :D I lost the serial cable to upload my wideband logs and am ordering a new one, as soon as I get it I will give you guys the logs.
It's OK - we trust ya ... (logs? we dont need no steeenking logs!)
What was your A:F at peak boost??
WOT
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
674 Posts
clownhair said:
Just did the Clowns Vaccuum mod and it holds boost all the way now. This made a huge difference! The car pulls very very nicely. :D I lost the serial cable to upload my wideband logs and am ordering a new one, as soon as I get it I will give you guys the logs.
Just a guess but did you totally bypass the solonoid all together and run the boost signal line from the intake to the top vacuum port of the bypass valve canister.

Oh, me too on the A/F numbers, I'm curious...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,887 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
MotorMouth said:
Just a guess but did you totally bypass the solonoid all together and run the boost signal line from the intake to the top vacuum port of the bypass valve canister.

Oh, me too on the A/F numbers, I'm curious...
very close, I will get the info posted asap.
 
1 - 20 of 40 Posts
Top