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BECAUSE RACECAR
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Mine didnt move either when they were reversed then i switch them and WAAA-LAAA and then my temps dropped.
 

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BECAUSE RACECAR
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No prob...

My buddy just got a redline and i told him bout the wires and he just called me and was like dude my blk/white is on teh + side...Im like yah there reversed u gotta switch them around lol.
 

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BECAUSE RACECAR
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Yah blck on + and blk/white is -

My buddy found out his pump is dead so its causing his coolant light and CEL to come on and pop his EMISS fuse too.
 

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bought a new pump last week. just installed it yesterday. bought a new connector for it and rewired it. black to positive and blk/wht to negative.
so yesterday when I was putting coolant in it. car was warm and pump seemed to be working good. bubbles were coming from the driver side hose and coming to the top of the reservoir. but you cant really see it flowing. this morning I want out and i couldnt see the flow. I squeezed the driver side hose and reservoir filled a little more.
my question is, is there a certain temp the engine has to be for the pump to turn on?
 

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Once the enigine runs for about 15 seconds, it turns on the pump
 

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Holy crap, just learned about this. My '04 has 92k miles...just looked under the car, and the wires are wrong. And I live in hot Socal....ugh.
 

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Likes "Cheese" and "Head"
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Holy crap, just learned about this. My '04 has 92k miles...just looked under the car, and the wires are wrong. And I live in hot Socal....ugh.
Is your pump still working? That is a long time to go with reversed wires.
 

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Is your pump still working? That is a long time to go with reversed wires.
Well, the day I posted that, I went to swap the wires when I got home....an hour long process since one of the pins was on the bottom like it should be, and after being frustrated, found out the other wire was in upside down and the locking pin was on the top.... swapped them, pluged it back in, started the car.....no coolant movement.

Ordered a new pump from ebay ($105 delivered), it arrives on Friday so I can get it put on.
 

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how sketchy is it to cut, switch, and crimp the wires?
 

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if i was you check and see if the pump is working and if it is then wait til it dies to switch the wires. my pump seemed fine and then noticed the wires were backwards switched them and then my coolant for sc was over flowing on almost every trip around town.
 

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Wiring Clip - thingy

OK, since this old thread is being revived I figured I'd chime in. I may just have one of the oldest RLs to still have the wires reversed. I just got mine and it has 132K miles now. I noticed there was no coolant at all in the I/C reservoir so I took a look. Sure enough, gry/blk was on the + side. Hard to believe it has been that way this long but ... who knows ??

I bought a new pump anyway and found those hose clamps are a major PITA. I could not get them off so I may have to cut them (and then replace them with the screw type). There is a HowTo post that essentially says the same thing and suggests that there is plenty of hose to spare. I am not sure about that - mine is pretty tight but worst case I just get a couple of lengths of hose and replace them.

My big problem though is the electrical connection clip. I popped it off OK but cannot for my life figure out how to get it back on!!! :spineyes: Any clues for this mystery?
 

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Yea. It would most likely pop your #10 emissions 15 amp fuse if it was bad. Thats what it did to mine...just kept popping that fuse and throwing 2 codes. So I imagine your pump is fine.=)

This is the symptoms for bad IC pump?


It's really odd that they did not have a way to alert a problem with IC pump

they have a billion other codes for everything else...
 

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I actually never had my IC pump checked


I should check it - almost two years after picking her up


Some of the power I generate and push on the engine

responds really well so I can't imagine the intercooler is not doing its

job.
 
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