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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i did some searching on the form and didnt find what im looking for but basicly...

This is the First Boosted Car ive had.
90% of my friends run boosted cars tho all turbo, so this is really the first S/C car i have been around.

Now comes my Question.

all the Torboed cars i been around have after marker or upgraded Air to air Intercoolers Typically large Front mounts.

Are these possible on a S/C if so would a noticable inproved gain be apperant?


Reason i ask is i can easily get my hands on a Evo 8 Front mound witch from looking around in the Red line is a whole lot bigger then our Air to water, unless im looking at the wrong spot.

and would fit beautifuly in the front air dam.

2nd Quick ? is there any comprehensive manuals out yet? like a chiltons or anything? i cant fine any.

Thanks Cruwl
 

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thats a good question. i would also like to know the answer
 

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It would be a bitch to route. Try it and let us know. Let the fabrication begin!!!!!

Would you remove the air-water? Damn that would be a bitch. The more I think about it, the more pissed my mind gets with all the work required... You would have to destroy your air-water making a way to route it THROUGH it, finding room to route the pipes to the front, then back to the intake.

Or replace the air-water with some sort of bracket to the intake, so it's in the same position. EXACT same position, or you'll f$#@ up your belt....





Good luck, buddy. We're all counting on you...
 

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WopOnTour was saying something in another thread about them being like $100 for the set for the Redline's. PM him bout that, he will have an answer. As for the intercooler, our air-to-water is one of the most efficient intercoolers (if not THE most) on a stock car, period. As far as I remember, our cores are made of Luminova, which absorbs heat very well. I'm not sure if an aftermarket air-to-air would be better, or have any positive effect at all. GM went with this unit for a reason, and I'd stick with it. It should be good to handle quite a bit of power. Someone also stated a while back that the stock ones were good for a while (power wise) and this had been tested by them. Can't remember who though, or when, sorry. Anyone else, correct me if I'm wrong and add to it if I'm not :)
 

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If it was a cyntrifical blower, then it would be relatively easy, but with the roots type. Man, you would need a big ass spacer to redirect the air out of the motor, and the piping, then the intake back to the origional route . . . Kinda pointles. Like was said before, our setup is extremely efficent (if wired correctly) :rolleyes:
 

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Our intercooler's are very good. The Laminova core is said to be around 85% efficient. I'm not completely sure what that means, so someone else would have to detail that.

Unless you have something to monitor the post blower and pre blower temps, it's shooting in the dark. To change to an air-air intercooler, would require immense amounts of fabrication. The amount of piping that would have to go BETWEEN the blower and the intake manifold would be nearly, if not totally, impossible. I'm sure it CAN be done, but...

There's advantages to both setups, air to air, and air to water, that are too numerous to really list here. There are ways to modify and optimize each system. Air-Air intercoolers can be sprayed with N20 or C02, freezing them into an ice block and allowing the air to become quite chilled after leaving the compressor/blower. Air-Water intercoolers have their own tricks.. WaterWetter is one, ice baths or dry-ice baths are another.
 

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Sp00ner said:
Our intercooler's are very good. The Laminova core is said to be around 85% efficient. I'm not completely sure what that means, so someone else would have to detail that.
which means it can bring the intake temp down up to 85% to outside air temp. so if the intake temp/outside temp is 100 it can effectivly bring the intake temp to 115 at full effiency.

You may not experiecne this unless the car is moving along at a decent rate so theres a ton of air over the exchanger but still its damn good. There is almost no FMIC that can do that.
 

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So it basically removes 85% of the heat from the blower... that's what I assumed, but you know how that goes...
 
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