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Discussion Starter #1
My 2005 was running fine for a few years, no issues and IAT2's were almost always 20 above IAT1 in normal driving, other than prolonged stops and heavy acceleration.

Lately, I've been seeing IAT2's running, on average 60-100 degrees above IAT1's. Last night for example, 50 outside IAT2 were 130. Normal 35 mph driving w/o any heavy acceleration. I've also seen my coolant temps go into the 200-210 range at times.

The local dealership said there isn't anything wrong (I think all they did was hook it up to diagnostics), but I'm wondering if the pump is going out or also has wiring reversed. I assumed it was correct from when I bought, since it never had an issue.

I have also tried feeling the pump with the car running, but I can't tell if it is working or just the normal vibration of the car running.
 

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F_ck Bates
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start ur car. open the filler neck infront of the super charger. if u dont see coolant moving like its being pushed out a hose then ur pump is dead. easiet way to check the pump in my eyes. good luck.

are u talking ur engine coolant temps are going to the low 200. that isnt totally out of control. As long at it drops back down that means ur coolant is doing what its supposed to. ur engine coolant is different then ur intake coolant. to o complete different systems. so ur intercooler pump doesnt have anything to do with engine coolant temps. good luck...

p.s. ur thermostat could be getting stuck and not letting the engine coolant thru. just something to think about....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My coolant will get into the 200's.

Thanks for the suggestions.

I thought about the thermostat, but I didn't think it would push up the intercooler temps.
I might be wrong. I know that thermostats can get flakey.
 

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pcm commands low speed fan on at engine coolant temps of 223*F and high speed fan on at 230*F so i'd say don't worry about it. the thermostat doesn't open till 180*

and yes, i'd say definitely you need an intercooler pump if the iat's are more than 30* apart at cruise....and cruise means like 60 mph.

but you can check without having to drive anywhere.

open hood, remove cap to intercooler fill neck. top off if neccessary to "full" line.

get in car, do not close door. put car in neutral with park brake on.

start car, get out.

10 seconds after you start the car the fluid in the intercooler fill neck should change from gentle rippling to raging torrent. it should be obvious. if it's not, then the pump is dead.
 

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F_ck Bates
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My coolant will get into the 200's.

Thanks for the suggestions.

I thought about the thermostat, but I didn't think it would push up the intercooler temps.
I might be wrong. I know that thermostats can get flakey.

listen to golden chicken. he knows a lot.


but just so u know ill sayit again. maybe u mis read my post or im misreading urs. but the engine coolant and thermostat are completely different then ur intake coolant. 2 different cooling systems doing to different things. ur engine coolant and thermostat will not effect ur intake coolant temps.
 

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i think he was mentioning two separate problems, which you properly addressed :lol:

and thanks for the rep.

i don't know a lot, i just know where to go to get the right answer, and i admit when i'm wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
yeah, I know they are two different systems. But the intercooler can affect the coolant temps.

I was mentioning the coolant because I know the fans, air dam, intercooler, sitting idle all affect the coolant temps. I had never seen temps in the 200's before for coolant. Made me nervous!
 

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the only way the intercooler can affect the coolant temps is if the front heat exchanger is blocked or clogged.

however, low airflow through the intake manifold can cause higher iat2s because of heat soak from a running engine. this can occur even at speed.
 

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disclaimer: newbie RL owner but can give you an example of fried IC pump from very recent personal experience...IAT2 temps 140-155 daily driving, maybe once into boost to and from work and coolant temps of 180-190...diagnosis was dead IC pump which ended up being covered under purchased extended warranty.

$100 deductible out of pocket...had I paid for it myself invoice was over $750 ($350 just for OEM replacement IC pump)

Hope this helps in some way...I would guess if you can't tell the pump is running by putting your hand on it, it's probably not operating.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, Update.

The dealership was wrong. The intercooler pump was bad. I replaced it today. The wiring was not reversed. But as soon as I got it installed and went for a drive, IAT2 are 20-40 above IAT1's AND coolant is back down in expected range.

Just an FYI for people. The systems may not be directly connected but there is an effect on the coolant temps when the intercooler pump goes out. If the intercooler pump goes out, it results in hotter air coming into the engine and that is going to raise the engine temps and the coolant temps.

Symbiotic, interdependent, whatever. But both suffer as a result. Now the car runs like it used to and is much happier, as am I.
 
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