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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New to the forum but you can refer to me as Monny94's team / car owner and chief mechanic.

There’s a lot to this story so sorry for the long post –

The car’s original pump failed so we replaced it. Since it’s an ’04, we cut and spliced the plug wiring with BLACK to positive terminal, black w/white stripe to negative. Could not remove the terminals so the soldering job looked like it was done by a blind caveman but… well, read on.

Before hooking up endplate hoses, started and ran the car for 10 plus seconds then funneled water to horizontal pump port. We got good (not great) flow out the vertical (top) pump port. The blind caveman soldering job worked.

Drove the car for a week or so and it seemed to be OK. Ran the bag off it a couple times and while the valve cover was way too hot to touch, you could rest your hand on the barely warm supercharger.

We then started noticing the engine coolant temp going up and coolant again being boiled out of Option B bottle.

Bought a new GM aftercooler pump plug and installed it with the provided connectors and a recently purchased crimping tool. Much happier with this wiring job.

BTW, before installing the new plug and with the engine running, I put a test light on the bare BLACK wire and lit the light.

After I installed the plug and with the engine running, I got NO light on the test light. I even probed the black wire – to the point of blowing the EMISS fuse – but still got no light on the test light.

However, with the new plug installed, BLACK wire to the positive terminal of the NEW pump, I can unplug and plug in the pump and get vibration at the pump and definitely at the hose coming off the vertical port. Both Mitch and I did this multiple times and got vibration at both the pump and the vertical port hose.

Here’s the rub. Sometimes when you run the car hard, you can rest your hand on the barely warm supercharger and other times, it’s too hot to touch.

Has anyone ever had a problem with the pump running intermittently? That seems to be what’s going on with our car.

RE: other causes, I’m 99.9% positive it’s not a leaking laminova core or that they were installed improperly. There’s NO white smoke out the exhaust and the only time we lose coolant is when the Option B bottle pukes a little out.
 

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are you running a tiny pulley on an m62? they get super inefficient when you drop to a 2.6" etc. (CFM vs heat)
sounds like your heat exchangers aren't bled properly and thats causing you to roast coolant until the pump pukes out the air.
 

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I've been through 3 of the IC pumps, they fail often (for me anyway) The 2nd time it stopped pumping, it still ran but would only pump the coolant for a few minutes, then it would stop flowing, but the pump motor was still running. I replaced it, and took it apart to inspect it... and found that the little plastic impeller inside was stripped, and would only spin a little bit. Can you see the IC coolant flowing at all times? (when it's hot)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Thanks guys -

The pulley is a GM Stage 2. Too be honest, I do not know what size it is (embarrassed to say) but it's not 2.6" or smaller.

We have a CED Option B kit on it so no concerns with whether the HE is bled or not.

Watts - should we be able to see the coolant flowing or moving in the Option B bottle? I thought it was just for expansion and not recirculating.

BTW, pushed the car a little and got into the supercharger on the last leg home. Pulled in the driveway and quickly popped the hood. The SC was barely lukewarm - you could leave your hand on it all day - while the valve cover was too hot to touch. Everything seems to be working today.
 

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None of your dual pass hoses are kinked?
Is it plumbed correctly?
Did you install the orifice on the option b bleed line?
Invest in a Interceptor scan gauge to monitor IAT vs IAT2 temps, this by "feel" stuff doesn't really mean a hell of a lot
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
None of your dual pass hoses are kinked?
Is it plumbed correctly?
Did you install the orifice on the option b bleed line?
Invest in a Interceptor scan gauge to monitor IAT vs IAT2 temps, this by "feel" stuff doesn't really mean a hell of a lot
No kinks, yes to the plumbing and orifice.

Where do we pick up an Interceptor scan gauge and what are "IAT" and "IAT2" temps? I get that technology will help in this situation but I can definitely tell when the supercharger is lukewarm vs. too hot to touch. When it's hot, the car is a brick and the option B bottle is puking fluid.
 

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Aeroforce - Aeroforce Intercepter Scan Gauge #

Start here.
I guess if I was in your situation, I would just run a set of jumper leads to the pump off a constant hot and neg. Then drive, this will tell you if the pump or pump wiring is the culprit. Diagnose from there. Hopefully it is something that can easily be resolved
 

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Invest in a Interceptor scan gauge to monitor IAT vs IAT2 temps, this by "feel" stuff doesn't really mean a hell of a lot
truth

Also, I have never seen a option puke up coolant that wasn't over filled, hot or not. It should never get that hot like your radiator system does. If it is spilling fluid, you likely have it routed wrong. Option b should be cool all the time. It is only receiving coolant from bleeder on heat exchanger.
SC touch and feel is a bad test. It will always be hot when you do any pulls. It takes time to cool.
 

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Yes scan gauge is great it will tell you for sure.

You should be able to see the coolant flowing in the filler neck. it will shake and move with the vibrations of the motor even if the pump isn't pumping, so you might think its flowing, but, if it is indeed flowing, its pretty easy to see the coolant really flowing through the filler neck, really obviously moving quickly. Option b line from bleeders should be steadily dripping fast into the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Aeroforce - Aeroforce Intercepter Scan Gauge #

Start here.
I guess if I was in your situation, I would just run a set of jumper leads to the pump off a constant hot and neg. Then drive, this will tell you if the pump or pump wiring is the culprit. Diagnose from there. Hopefully it is something that can easily be resolved
Awesome idea and will try this weekend - thanks! A scan gauge is in our future too. Appreciate all the help guys.
 

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looking for an intercooler core

hey daughter took her care and hit a rock and tweeked the intercooler core pretty hard anyone know of an aftermarket that might work to replace it
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Hey - nobody responded to this question:

BTW, before installing the new plug and with the engine running, I put a test light on the bare BLACK wire and lit the light.

After I installed the plug and with the engine running, I got NO light on the test light. I even probed the black wire – to the point of blowing the EMISS fuse – but still got no light on the test light.

Why am I only able to light the test light with a bare black wire but not the plug terminal??? Anybody have thoughts or an answer to this? More curious than anything.
 

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I am thinking you just aren't getting a good probe, I bought a set of piercing leads because I have screwed myself before just trying to poke the wire. It is fairly embarrassing when I have to ask the oldest grumpy mechanic around to give me a hand and discover it was just my haste that made the waste.
 
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