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i did what rice told me to do before i put the tranny back in and it worked but now theres air in the line. AND I CRACKED THE BLEEDER SCREW AND GOT SOME AIR OUT TO ONLY GET VERY LITTLE PEDAL. HELP PLEASE ANY ONE EMAIL MVP8839 PM ME HERE ON THE FORUMS OR CALL 619 253 0535
 

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Bump....come on guys, we need fullthrottle at the races tomorrow, someone please help him, or I will continue to bump this thread all day...
 

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you need some one to pump the pedal while i bleed and add more dot
 

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Important
Do not start the engine while the transaxle is engaged, only while in the neutral position. This vehicle is equipped with a concentric slave cylinder (CSC) and will move if started in gear.


is that just while on this procedure or all the time it is a good thing to know If we cannot start them in gear - i do to my truck and it is ok but I would nto want to break something in the tranny

anyways sorry for thread jacking but I had to ask
 

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best thing to do is go to napa and buy this part

http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=SER&PartNumber=2538&Description=One+Man+Brake+Bleeder

this also works for bleeding clutchs and it the easiest way to do it...

this has a one way valve and basicly only allows for the fluid to flow in one direction.. so you just slip the one part over the bleeder nipple and then get in pump 5 times and then refill the cylinder with new fluid and pump 5 more times and keep doing that... if you want have someone else watch the hose and when they stop seeing bubbles coming thru the line then you know you got all of the air out of it...

once you get it all out tighten down the bleeder and your good to go..

your wlecome
 

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I think the other SD-area RLs need to pay fullthrottle a visit and make sure this thing gets back together in time...blurry said he was available, right? Anyone else?
 

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It's time for a group hug.

Here's a thought (and maybe a bad one): When I had issues bleeding my S-10's master cylinder, I called the local Chevy dealer and asked them how they do it. They took the time to explain the best way to do it.
 

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he's ok now.. i juts got off the phone with him and he's all set... the bleeder i told him to get will solve his problems in a matter of mins... should only take between 10 to 20 mins tops to completely bleed the system and that includes all the stoping and re-filling of the cylinder... he'll be good to guy by the end of tonight
 

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crazybrew609 said:
he's ok now.. i juts got off the phone with him and he's all set... the bleeder i told him to get will solve his problems in a matter of mins... should only take between 10 to 20 mins tops to completely bleed the system and that includes all the stoping and re-filling of the cylinder... he'll be good to guy by the end of tonight
Mike you have no excuses now....bring the car and with all of our help at the track, we will make it purrrrrring again....
 

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nooooo.. their will be no driving of this car until he bleeds it.. as of right now he's basicly dry shifting every gear.. which means the syncros are not like it... driving it more runs the risk of fucking up the tranny.. bleed it and be done with it
 

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crazybrew609 said:
nooooo.. their will be no driving of this car until he bleeds it.. as of right now he's basicly dry shifting every gear.. which means the syncros are not like it... driving it more runs the risk of fucking up the tranny.. bleed it and be done with it
Well hopefully he finds the part and bleeds today if he can, the track is tomorrow...
 

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I read crazybrew's post, get that part. I have one for my sand rail...it REALLY helps ALOT, that and you dont waste fluid, I used it on my VW sandrail. Just make sure all the hoses and lines that carry the fluid are connected properly (i forgot to tighten a couple down on the 'Rail, not fun to find where 20 leaks are) that way there isnt any air getting into the system. Fill clutch master cylinder, open bleed valve, connect the bleeder part dealie, pump clutch, wait for bubbled to stop coming out of bleeder, add more fluid if necessary, close valve, done.
 

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wasteds got it... it takes more time to keep re-filling the fluid in the cylinder then it does to actually bleed it.. works great tho.. highly reccomended.. especially since it's impossible to do wrong


they went well beyond making it idiot proof

it's

"SUPERBIRD PROOF"
 

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crazybrew609 said:
wasteds got it... it takes more time to keep re-filling the fluid in the cylinder then it does to actually bleed it.. works great tho.. highly reccomended.. especially since it's impossible to do wrong


they went well beyond making it idiot proof

it's

"SUPERBIRD PROOF"
Is that even possible? I thought 'being an idiot' was the only thing superbird proof, because he dosn;t screw that up at ALL!
 

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crazybrew609 said:
no this truely is superbird proof.... it's dyno fuckin proven

i posted on how to do it... no one listens to mme
 

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DaBirdman said:
Member #001 - Diagnosed with cranial insanatosis
Maybe this is why...
 
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