Dang, she looks tight and right. The BRFPR looks good there. I haven’t figured out where I’m going to put my fuel lab reg. Also That clear hose coolant crossover was a nice touch. 🤔
New return style fuel setup
I had not seen anyone do a rail mounted regulator return style setup on a SC LSJ w/ M62 yet. Since I still have my '04 and everything is turning to rust and nothing fits the stock '04 fuel feed line I decided it was time to tackle it. The main issue was going to be clearance but I can confirm it fits. Also since the '04 feed line is different I got to rid myself of that nuisance.
The main components I used are the OTTP fuel rail, OTTP fuel line, OTTP swivel fitting, ZZP LNF E85 line for the return and ZZP's BRFPS kit along with a lot of other misc fittings. The ZZP LNF fuel line is the perfect length to reach the BRFPS outlet. My BRFPS was originally rear mounted and I live in MI so this had the added benefit of getting it away from most of the elements and E85 proofing more of the system. The only downside so far is no more schrader / test valve and the fitment is so tight i cant fit a gauge on the BRFPS. I have an email out to Fuel Labs asking if I can use the second inlet / pressure fitting as a test port but they dont seem to respond. I dont see why it would not work though.
![Motor vehicle Hood Light Automotive air manifold Automotive design]()
![Motor vehicle Hood Car Vehicle Automotive design]()
The main difficulty was the stock mounting hardware for the pressure and EVAP lines. Too much rust and the plastic is brittle, totally worthless to reuse. I ended up double, triple, quadruple measuring and drilling some holes from inside the cabin and using stainless steel hardware and P-clamps to hold the lines. I then sandwiched everything with stainless washers and sealant to prevent rust. I needed a second pair of hands for tightening some of the bolts. They will probably outlast the car now.
I need to get more pics underneath but where they route next to the exhaust was a challenge. I found some heat shield wrap with metal zipties on amazon, wrapped the entire section where they run next to and cross over the exhaust, then used a bolt from inside the trunk just behind the rear seat to secure them with a P-clamp..
I only have a test fit picture, before i swapped in stainless hardware with lock nuts and gooped some sealant in. I'll get some better pics next time I'm under there.
![Automotive tire Tread Composite material Synthetic rubber Rim]()
Also of note: The coolant return crossover tube no longer clears the new rail. This was another idea I wanted to try. After a little research I found the banjo bolt with the 2 copper rings is M10x1.0. Knowing this I was able to find an M10x1.0 - 1/4 barb with a crush washer, and replace the entire annoying coolant crossover tube with clear hose.
Edit: This is the coolant fitting I used B100 M10x1.0 To 1/4 Barb W/ Crush Washer Aluminum Fitting Black
However I found I was having a very small leak that was so small I could only smell from under the washer when fully warmed up. I swapped one of the original copper washers back in place of the aluminum one that came with the fitting. No leaks yet.
![Motor vehicle Hood Automotive fuel system Vehicle Automotive exterior]()
^I love this pic. You can see condensation on the rail after driving.
![Hood Motor vehicle Blue Light Vehicle]()
I no longer have boost leaks to the BRFPS from the rusty EVAP line, everything is much cleaner looking in the engine bay now. The old fuel lines mostly had to be broken out in pieces. Underneath the old heat wrap they basically started leaking when i disturbed them.
The main components I used are the OTTP fuel rail, OTTP fuel line, OTTP swivel fitting, ZZP LNF E85 line for the return and ZZP's BRFPS kit along with a lot of other misc fittings. The ZZP LNF fuel line is the perfect length to reach the BRFPS outlet. My BRFPS was originally rear mounted and I live in MI so this had the added benefit of getting it away from most of the elements and E85 proofing more of the system. The only downside so far is no more schrader / test valve and the fitment is so tight i cant fit a gauge on the BRFPS. I have an email out to Fuel Labs asking if I can use the second inlet / pressure fitting as a test port but they dont seem to respond. I dont see why it would not work though.
The main difficulty was the stock mounting hardware for the pressure and EVAP lines. Too much rust and the plastic is brittle, totally worthless to reuse. I ended up double, triple, quadruple measuring and drilling some holes from inside the cabin and using stainless steel hardware and P-clamps to hold the lines. I then sandwiched everything with stainless washers and sealant to prevent rust. I needed a second pair of hands for tightening some of the bolts. They will probably outlast the car now.
I need to get more pics underneath but where they route next to the exhaust was a challenge. I found some heat shield wrap with metal zipties on amazon, wrapped the entire section where they run next to and cross over the exhaust, then used a bolt from inside the trunk just behind the rear seat to secure them with a P-clamp..
I only have a test fit picture, before i swapped in stainless hardware with lock nuts and gooped some sealant in. I'll get some better pics next time I'm under there.
Also of note: The coolant return crossover tube no longer clears the new rail. This was another idea I wanted to try. After a little research I found the banjo bolt with the 2 copper rings is M10x1.0. Knowing this I was able to find an M10x1.0 - 1/4 barb with a crush washer, and replace the entire annoying coolant crossover tube with clear hose.
Edit: This is the coolant fitting I used B100 M10x1.0 To 1/4 Barb W/ Crush Washer Aluminum Fitting Black
However I found I was having a very small leak that was so small I could only smell from under the washer when fully warmed up. I swapped one of the original copper washers back in place of the aluminum one that came with the fitting. No leaks yet.
^I love this pic. You can see condensation on the rail after driving.
I no longer have boost leaks to the BRFPS from the rusty EVAP line, everything is much cleaner looking in the engine bay now. The old fuel lines mostly had to be broken out in pieces. Underneath the old heat wrap they basically started leaking when i disturbed them.
