[SaturnI0Nredline]

Hey guys, does anyone have a Nitrous Kit on there RL? I'm thinking about starting out with a 50 wet shot. I the guys down at the shop are dieing for me to do this. Its going to cost around $700 install with Purge valves. This is a stage 1 system. I can upgrade with a nozzel change to 75 or 100. I think thats what he said. Well let me know your thoughts guys!!!

 

[navymitch12]

yo man go for it, i want to know how it works, if they know what they are doing go for it

i know i want to get it but waiting to see how it goes first, now willing to blow my engine or anything bad like that.

 

[BOOSTED]

Wassup rick, to bad we couldn't do anything that day but its all good. If you do go with the noss, get wet not dry.

 

[shaneathan]

Hey guys, does anyone have a Nitrous Kit on there RL? I'm thinking about starting out with a 50 wet shot. I the guys down at the shop are dieing for me to do this. Its going to cost around $700 install with Purge valves. This is a stage 1 system. I can upgrade with a nozzel change to 75 or 100. I think thats what he said. Well let me know your thoughts guys!!!

You can get nitrous for the redline. Check the thread on performance manufacturers. I saw I think wet shot.

 

[gm3saturn]

Keep in mind that if you go with spray this soon, it will limit your posible mods later. Its never recomended to do any electricle mods with spray because your A/F ratio is vitle to runing spray safly, i.e. with out fucken your engine. Also, its a good idea to istall a cat back and headers prior to spray because you dont want any back presure pushing that shit back into your motor. That is some what unlikly but it can happen. Anouther thing to keep in mind it that once you get a CAI or short ram you will have to uninstall the nozle/hosing, tap a whole in the new system, and reinstall the nozle. Also, if you install any tip of intake system after your shots, that will efect your A/F ration as well. Im not trying to talk you out of getting it, just trying to point out some key issues that a shop wont tell you. Their goal is to make money, not better your car.

 

[Sp00ner]

I wouldn't do it, I hate nitrous... well, in my car I hate it.

 

[gm3saturn]

I think it would be a geat addition, just not yet. For optimum hp Id go air (intake, exhaust, header), new ECU, pulley, then Spray. That way all the shit that the spray effects is tuned a head of time. If you do spray first you have the potental for problems.

 

[rip_vw32]

Ummmm, why wet? Dry is much easier (and in my opinion safer) as all your doing is spraying into the intake and not the cyclinders, and the MAF will help ensure correct fuel/air ratio......Right?

 

[Sp00ner]

Ummmm, why wet? Dry is much easier (and in my opinion safer) as all your doing is spraying into the intake and not the cyclinders, and the MAF will help ensure correct fuel/air ratio......Right?

I think with how close to capacity we are running the injectors, the dry shot would be a bit risky, would it not?

 

[Tom01SC2]

Ummmm, why wet? Dry is much easier (and in my opinion safer) as all your doing is spraying into the intake and not the cyclinders, and the MAF will help ensure correct fuel/air ratio......Right?

Apparently you haven't used nitrous before? Not trying to be rude or anything. Both a wet and dry shot can shoot into the intake, as long as it is a single fogger setup. If I put nitrous on my Redline (run nitrous right now on my other car) I'd use a wet kit, it would be a lot safer in my opinion. Apparently though, spraying into the intake puts wear on the coating in the S/C. I heard a lot of GTP guys are doing it with no problems. I'd probably research more over there before I did it though...

Tom