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Lurking Diplomat
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Discussion Starter #41
Hey, apology accepted, dude. Like I said, get involved in a few discussions, share some info, ask some questions, etc. and then see what you think. I think you'll be surprised at how much some of us know. Once you get that post count up a little bit (Senior Member is a good thing) and you haven't been banned at all or flamed too much, people won't react too harshly if you yourself are a little... shall we say... forward. Otherwise, you're just some new guy no one has ever heard of calling us all a bunch of dummies.

Welcome to the forum. Do you actually have a Redline?
 

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Hey, apology accepted, dude. Like I said, get involved in a few discussions, share some info, ask some questions, etc. and then see what you think. I think you'll be surprised at how much some of us know. Once you get that post count up a little bit (Senior Member is a good thing) and you haven't been banned at all or flamed too much, people won't react too harshly if you yourself are a little... shall we say... forward. Otherwise, you're just some new guy no one has ever heard of calling us all a bunch of dummies.

Welcome to the forum. Do you actually have a Redline?
Well thanks for the advice. To answer your question, yes I have a 2004 redline nothing serious done to it yet I put in an ingals torque dampener to stop wheel hop and I just got an Auto Meter boost gauge I'm getting ready to put in, I have a lot more I want to do but time and budget are keeping me back. Anywho before I ramble on anymore thank you for the help and keep on trucken'
 

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Another way to reach the filter

What you will need:

1 1/4" socket (1/2" drive)
6-10" socket extension (at least 6", but a 10" makes it a LOT easier)
15mm socket
10mm socket
Oil pan
Ramps or Jack Stands
6-7 quarts Mobil 1 Full-Synthetic 5W-30 oil (or your preferred brand)
Oil Filter is Your Choice. Here are the various part numbers: FRAM CH9018, K&N HP7000, Purolator L15436, AC-Delco 457G (filter only) or 458G (includes replacement cap and cap seal).

1. Raise the front of the car enough to get underneath it. Ramps are easiest, jack stands will give you the most clearance if you're a bigger guy (or gal).



2. Crawl underneath and locate the oil drain plug. It's centered on the oil pan. Fit a 15mm socket and ratchet on. BEFORE you loosen the drain plug, make sure your oil pan is positioned under the drain. You're going to want the pan positioned toward the rear of the car, as the oil will shoot out pretty far when the plug is first removed.



3. Remove the drain plug and allow the oil to drain into the pan (this will take a while). Clean the drain plug off with a towel and inspect for little shards of metal. Drain plugs are magnetic, so little metal shavings indicate your engine may be shredding itself internally. A clean drain plug means a clean engine.



4. While the oil is draining, position a 10mm socket on the two bolts holding the intercooler to the supercharger. Remove the bracket from the supercharger, and move the intercooler down to the right and out of the way. [EDIT: Some people don't find this step necessary, but it makes things a lot easier if you have big hands. It helps to get the thing out of the way, in my opinion]



5. Disconnect the electrical connection running from the supercharger, and pull the wires up and out of the way. [EDIT: This is optional; some do it without removing the wires, but should you find them in the way, here's what you're looking for to remove them. The last few changes I've done, I haven't disconnected these. They're not really in the way, and they are a bitch to put back on]



6. Grab your 1 1/4" socket and maneuver it under the supercharger and onto the oil filter cap.



7. Drop your ratchet extension down from above and seat it into your socket. Attach your ratchet handle and begin unscrewing the oil filter cap. I usually just loosen the cap, then finish removing it by hand.



8. Once that's all unscrewed, maneuver the cap (the filter will come with it) out of the filter well and underneath the supercharger until it's totally out. Yank on the filter and it'll come loose from the cap. Dispose of filter (I keep a Ziplok bag handy and take it with me to dispose along with my used oil). Clean the cap off (there WILL be oil all over it).



9. Grab your new filter.



10. Manuever the new filter (pointy end down) into the filter well. Once the filter is in place, replace the filter cap and ratchet it down tight (but not TOO tight).



11. By this time your oil should be completely drained. Make sure you've cleaned off the drain plug, and replace it in the pan. Ratchet it down tight. Replace the coolant filler neck and electrical connections that you removed earlier.

12. Once you've replaced the drain plug, add 6 1/2-7 quarts of Mobil 1 Full Synthetic 5W-30 (or your preferred brand of oil).



13. Button everything up. Make sure you've removed the oil pan from under the car, reattached everything, and closed the oil fill cap. Drop the car down from the ramps/stands and start her up. Let it run for a minute, then shut it down, allow the oil to settle back into the pan, and then check your dipstick. Mine is all good on 6.5 qts. of oil. Add more as needed, a half-quart at a time.

14. Once your dipstick is showing the proper oil level, push your trip-odometer button until "OIL LIFE" appears. Once "OIL LIFE" is on your screen, hold the trip odometer button until it dings and says "RESET."

15. Drive 3 months or 3000 miles, whichever comes first, and repeat steps 1-15.
I found the tutorial very helpful since this was going to be my first oil change with my redline. It was great to have everything I needed when I got ready to start. No surprises. By dumb luck before I started the oil change I was going over things on the car and loosened the 3 hose clamps and took off the rubber boot that feeds the supercharger. When I looked for the oil filter I still had it off and was able to reach it without removing anything else. You still have to do finger gymnastics to get the filter out, but it looked like you would have to do that from any position. Anyways it worked well for me. Just thought I would throw that into the mix.
 

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whats your reasoning? they are both paper correct, so why does it matter?
when you have seen what a taurus sho's rodbearings look like after the fram filter gets screwed up, then come back and see if you agree with us, fram oil filters = cardboard crap to me....

good how to, I just did that and an air filter change today for the first time without checking this, it took me 3 hours.....:fight:
 

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I'm gonna add another thank you to this one.
When I change the oil on this beast for the first time this will save me some time! Not that I didn't know how to change the oil but the search for the filter would have taken quite a while!!
 

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It's good having small hands, i can fit down to the oil filter no problem.

I also use only ac delco filters, in the ION and the my cavalier. Just stop at a dealer and pick up a few at a time.
 

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Is this walkthrough virtually compatible with the 2.4L on the ION3? From what I can see, the oil drain plug is in the same spot as is the oil filter (bonus points that a SC isn't in the way - negative points that I don't have a SC to be in the way :p). I'll have to check for a part number on the filter, but can anyone confirm if there are any differences in the process?

I just paid to have mine done but I am pretty sure I can do it myself and buy better oil for the price I paid for service. Let me know - thanks!

:cowsmile:
 

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haha btw. definitely worth doing yourself. i took mine in this morning and they charged me nearly 100 dollars to change the oil and check the other fluids. freakin mobil 1 oil is not cheap lol
 

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Dead post I know, but just FYI. I just got back from advanced auto parts and they had a sale for mobile 1 oil and the M1C-151 filter. It might be short notice.

I almost bought the AC-Delco with the Mobile 1 oil. When I heard about the sale, the price dropped $5 (yes only 5 bucks), but I think I got a better filter out of the filter too.
 

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I put 7.5 quarts in a my oil level said it was above full ! Will it be ok to drive like this until next oil change?
 

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Thats like a quart over full on mine, drain some out. Too much oil can cause foaming and cavitation, not good.
 

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This forums great. Excellent how-to

I just recently purchased my '04 Ion redline and I do love the car. The prior owner was definitely a bit careless with it as far as the engine goes. I just wanted to say that all of these how-to's are great! They really help me so much because I haven't worked with a car engine before to change or fix things and now I feel like I'm really making headway learning all this stuff. For example I just changed the air filter, cabin air filter, put in new supercharger oil, did an oil change along with an oil filter change and I cleaned out the throttle body along with the supercharger. Without all of the great help on here I would have had to spend much more money I'm sure, so thank you all very much! I'm very excited to participate in these forums and help out whenever I can as well! :sunny::grinbigin
 

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i am not mechanical to any degree. the least mechanical man i know. a great source of entertainment for my friends in fact! but I'm about to venture in to my first oil change this weekend. i appreciate this tutorial very much. i will need a little more research I'm assuming, but this is a great start. as i will need all the help i can get! if this works out, brakes are next! thanks for taking the time for these tutorials, some of us truly need them!
 

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I would guess from looking at the oil filter trapped under the SC, small hands could help.
 

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I would guess from looking at the oil filter trapped under the SC, small hands could help.
They help but I always just undid the sc coolant tube and push it to the side. Put a 1-1/4 short socket up under sc neck onto the oil filter cover. Stick an extension behind the sc and down into socket and loosen cap. Remove in same order and pull everything out.

I will prolly do mine soonish I’ll have to do a video.
 
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