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I bought this car with a CEL in the beginning of November. When I picked it up the dealer said they fixed the light. So with it "fixed" I installed a boost gauge. after a few days I got P0171 system too lean bank 1. The dealer wont touch it because "boost gauge caused this new light". Researching on the forum, I replaced the MAF sensor, cleaned the throttle body, replaced all my pressure/vacuum lines dealing with the supercharger, I got it to turn off for a while when I fixed the leak in the valve cover breather line. So after a few days of checking to make sure the light doesn't come back on, the flex pipe rips open and it sits in the garage until I buy a new down pipe. now that I have the exhaust and no light for about a month, I got to get in inspected here in Mass. Miraculous CEL! system too lean! and they don't like the loudness of my new exhaust. So any way the important part. I when through everything stated above again and cleared the light. so far good. I decided to see what other falts I have and find p0100 MAF circuit malfunction, no light just in memory. I think this could be my problem but I don't know what to check for. Voltage frequency? is it the wiring or the sensor? or am I looking up the wrong tree? someone help please. I know have less then 60 days to fix this car and have it pass inspection. I hate Mass!
 

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I bought this car with a CEL in the beginning of November. When I picked it up the dealer said they fixed the light. So with it "fixed" I installed a boost gauge. after a few days I got P0171 system too lean bank 1. The dealer wont touch it because "boost gauge caused this new light". Researching on the forum, I replaced the MAF sensor, cleaned the throttle body, replaced all my pressure/vacuum lines dealing with the supercharger, I got it to turn off for a while when I fixed the leak in the valve cover breather line. So after a few days of checking to make sure the light doesn't come back on, the flex pipe rips open and it sits in the garage until I buy a new down pipe. now that I have the exhaust and no light for about a month, I got to get in inspected here in Mass. Miraculous CEL! system too lean! and they don't like the loudness of my new exhaust. So any way the important part. I when through everything stated above again and cleared the light. so far good. I decided to see what other falts I have and find p0100 MAF circuit malfunction, no light just in memory. I think this could be my problem but I don't know what to check for. Voltage frequency? is it the wiring or the sensor? or am I looking up the wrong tree? someone help please. I know have less then 60 days to fix this car and have it pass inspection. I hate Mass!
what exactly did you do to your maf to clean it? you possibly could have damaged it. did you happen to turn your car on while you had the maf out to clean it?

go to autozone and clear the code (for free). drive it for a week. go to autozone and re-scan. if there are no codes, go get re-inspected.
 

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I used contact cleaner to clean the MAF and never turned the key or anything like that with it out or unplugged. All codes are clear right now. when the light was out I checked codes and got p0100 so i was thinking it was the root to my p0171.
 

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Where did you get the MAF sensor that you installed? Dealer, Autozone or Ebay?

PS: I'd take it back to the dealer and call their bluff. There's no fucking way installing a boost gauge can cause a lean condition.
 

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do you have a k&n CAI??? did everyone miss this???

If you do....you probably have a leak intake somewhere...like a clamp is loose or off all together.
 

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I got the MAF as a GM remanufactured from autozone. I do have a K&N CAI, I checked the connection at the throttle body and at the filter. I don't know of another. The car came with it and I have never seen one out side the car. But I thought the most important connections are post MAF. so does any one know what the wires leading to the MAF are supposed to read? If they check out good, I'm taking the MAF back to autozone.
 

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between the throttle body and filter is a bend where there are 2 clamps and a silicone sleeve. that connection, if not super duper tight, will come loose and cause leaks.....

get under your car on the driver side...you'll see the bend i'm talking about. tighten that as much as you possibly can.....it should fix your code
 

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I got the MAF as a GM remanufactured from autozone.
There's your 0100 problem. Autozone sensors do not cooperate with our cars. Try OEM from GM and that should take care of it. Wait, according to the code list there's no such thing as P0100. Are you sure that's it?

Also, just having a K&N intake has thrown a lean code in the past. If you absolutely can't put the stock one back on, at least tighten the couplers down a little bit more and see if it comes back.
 

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There's your 0100 problem. Autozone sensors do not cooperate with our cars. Try OEM from GM and that should take care of it. Wait, according to the code list there's no such thing as P0100. Are you sure that's it?

Also, just having a K&N intake has thrown a lean code in the past. If you absolutely can't put the stock one back on, at least tighten the couplers down a little bit more and see if it comes back.
The sensor is OEM GM remanufactured, it has a GM part number. I saw the p0100 code is not on that sticky list at the top of this group. The p0100 did not throw a light it was just sitting in there. I don't have a stock intake at all so the K&N is going to have to work.

I have done everything I could find on this forum to get rid of the light short of adding in a resistor to fake it, and so far it is off. but in a month from now it will come back on. I just happened to see that the p0100 was hiding behind the p0171 code this time and want to do something constructive against it instead of "trying" what I have already done, again.
 

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The sensor is OEM GM remanufactured, it has a GM part number. I saw the p0100 code is not on that sticky list at the top of this group. The p0100 did not throw a light it was just sitting in there. I don't have a stock intake at all so the K&N is going to have to work.

I have done everything I could find on this forum to get rid of the light short of adding in a resistor to fake it, and so far it is off. but in a month from now it will come back on. I just happened to see that the p0100 was hiding behind the p0171 code this time and want to do something constructive against it instead of "trying" what I have already done, again.


was is a p0100 or is it a p0101?? Anyways, most of the time a p0171 will cause the MAF dtc to set. If you have a P0171 caused by a vac. leak it will set the MAF code due to the unmetered air entering the motor. Also, adding the boost gauge could cause the p0171 to set if you have a leak anywhere in the lines you spliced/added. I'm not saying that is the case...but just something to check out.
 

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your 171 is cause your maf is dipping out of the factory limit of HTZ.. which COULD cause the 100, get a tune and up the level of acceptable hertz. if the 171 goes away then you know it's maf if the 100 stay's.. if it does get a maf directly from the dealer or search CSS.NET. NEW NOT refurbished.
 

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I have even eliminated the boost guage with a new hose when the dealer was being a D-bag. so I whent through all those hoses. so you think the 0171 caused the 0100 not the other way around?

well, 9 out of the 10 cars I get in at work with lean codes and maf codes the cause of the problems is a vac. leak causing the lean condition, which in turn sets the MAF dtc. A lot of times the cold weather really makes it worse due to it making the rubber hoses/seals/o-rings contract and leaking more. Does it run rough at all??
 

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come to think of it, it did start doing the fluctuating idle. when I pushed the clutch it would drop to like 500 rpm then bounce up to a little over 1000 and back down 3 or 4 times. the light came on last Saturday I cleared it, it ran this way until it came on again Tuesday I think. I drove home with it on, checked the hoses cleaned the maf checked and cleared the P0171 code with the light off I checked for codes again and got P0100 and some shift fault. but the light hasn't been on seance.

oh and what was that css.net?
 

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key on engine off, unplug the connector, I'm not sure of the colors off hand, but check for 5 volts, 4.9x is fine, then go from ground wire, to good dround and check resistance, should be 0 on the meter. then go from the signal wire to to the pcm with the battery unplugged check resistance in that as well, should be 0. This is all assuming you have a simple dvom, also inspect the connector for any foreign debri, loose pins, frayed wires. Then in hpt, log the maf...with the graph i think it is(not familiar with hpt much) look for a pattern, while tapping on the sensor, check for pattern change.. I'd start with hpt first.


This is how I would test the maf, the only way you can check frequence is with a oscilliscope or a scanner.
 
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