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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Anyone price Brake pads yet on their Red Lines yet? Mine have been squeaking enough, I think its time for a new set. I'm not sure if I'm going to go with OEM or higher performance brakes. I'll be sure to post my findings if I find a good price somewhere. Oh and another quick question, is it a good idea to use the same type of materials as the original equipment or will that affect my rotors? I had to have my rotors machined at about 10,000 miles already and don't want anymore trouble out of them if I can help it. Again thanks for the input.
 

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Pads are pretty cheap. Use OE replacements, should be a semi-metallic material. Always replace shims with pads. New shims and perhaps (not required) some anti-squeal juice will help with the squeakin'.

When you remove the pads, check the wear indicator. If you've got life in them left, try some of that compound, and see if it works.

Here you go, prelim diagnostics. Does it squeak when you apply pressure?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
yrethguad said:
Here you go, prelim diagnostics. Does it squeak when you apply pressure?

Yeah, the wear indicator is squeakin like the mouse on your avitar :D Figured its getting close to the time to replacing them. I've considered taking them to midas for their lifetime guarantee on pads, but would like to spend the $$$ on quality pads rather than service.
 

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TXRLU said:
Yeah, the wear indicator is squeakin like the mouse on your avitar :D Figured its getting close to the time to replacing them. I've considered taking them to midas for their lifetime guarantee on pads, but would like to spend the $$$ on quality pads rather than service.

:D We ht this on another thread. I still have my original pads in a box. Less
the 2000 miles on them. I put on ceramics as fast as I could find them. got
these at tirerack.. btw if anyone want the original pads you can have them.
Too dirty for me.

akebono pro-act ceramic pads $55.00

You might find them cheaper. :D
 

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Damn that's a lot for pads. The ceramics put out less dust though don't they? Or a different color?

The reason I ask if it squeaks when you apply pressure is because typically the wear indicator only squeaks when the brakes aren't applied. Sometimes they will stop when applied, or make a different noise. If you look at the indicator you can see why it does this, but if it does it cruising down the road, it's an indicator, if only when applied, it's just squeaking. I would get some anti-squeal, and new shims (cheap), then take out the pads and check the shims. I say get new ones first just in case they break on the way out. I'll take a pic of what happens when a shim breaks, and take a pic of some pads to throw on here for a reference to others. Make this a real learnin' thread.

Or you could just put new pads, sup to you. Just don't forget shims!

vvv "Squeak!" vvv
 

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We have ceramic pads already... some VERY good ones at that...

That's actually one of the reasons for the rotors getting beat up. Mine have had mild grooves on them from day one. So does a few other cars in the lot, and now my bosses SRT10 is getting them. I showed him mine and first words outta his mouth were.. "Ceramic Pads? Ya, check out my brakes..." He's owned the truck for 3 weeks. Says you can see them get worse at the strip, and fade over the course of the week.

Jim Lewis talked to the GM Performance people at a show, and they told his that it's completely normal. These weren't sales guys either, they were engineers I believe. Said something to the effect of changing the pads might make the grooves stop, but it's because they aren't biting as well as the ceramic stock pads.
 

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Sp00ner said:
We have ceramic pads already... some VERY good ones at that...

That's actually one of the reasons for the rotors getting beat up. Mine have had mild grooves on them from day one. So does a few other cars in the lot, and now my bosses SRT10 is getting them. I showed him mine and first words outta his mouth were.. "Ceramic Pads? Ya, check out my brakes..." He's owned the truck for 3 weeks. Says you can see them get worse at the strip, and fade over the course of the week.

Jim Lewis talked to the GM Performance people at a show, and they told his that it's completely normal. These weren't sales guys either, they were engineers I believe. Said something to the effect of changing the pads might make the grooves stop, but it's because they aren't biting as well as the ceramic stock pads.
:confused:
NOw I am confused. If my org pads were ceramic then why did I get tons of black dust on my wheels. I did have groves in my rotors and the dealer
turned the rotors for free and installed my new pads for free.
 

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Ceramic pads are not dust free, that I'm aware of. I've run ceramic pads on most cars. I'm sure they MAKE low or dust free ceramic pads, but I've never had a car that didn't get brake dust on the wheels, including my old SC2.
 

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JimLewis said:
Relating to brakes, I spoke at length with the brake technical team leader at my school (UTI), a former GM brake system engineer and technical instructor with 28 years in the field, and who just left the field last year to teach at our school.

I had my car in the shop doing PM with my class, and removed the brake rotors and showed him the scoring that seemed abnormal to me. He explained that the grooving and wear were perfecty normal for rotors used with ceramic pads. I had his class machine the rotors, even though I had no warpage, and the scoring is already back after 200 miles.

Normal. I'm convinced.
JDRedline said:
I also had gouging in my front rotors (these topics just seem to recycle over and over). Saturn told me it was normal.

Now, about 10,000 miles later, the front rotors are as smooth as the back rotors.
Blu_Redline said:
A side note, I mentioned to him the info that Jim Lewis posted about our brakes being ceramic and the rotor wear was a result of that fact. He stated that the tech and he were just discussing that about a half hour earlier and that's exactly what the technician said about the brake pads. He said that they were about the best brakes you could have on any car and a little rotor wear was well worth the price to get that kind of stopping power.
This is the best 3 posts from the last go around of this... particuarly JDRedline's one about these things cycling by! :D
 
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