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This is already sold (someone already claimed it, and then there is someone behind that) But I just wanted to post the pics, mainly the one to where the signal wire goes, for general use


The engine bay (REALY dirty):


The cover removed and coils exposed
In this pic, you can kinda see the green signal wire, and the red splice into the coil's wiring:


This one shows that I have the top wire spliced. You can go off any coil, just tap the one with the stripe on it (should be the 'top' wire when in the installed position)



And there you have it, the red wire goes to a 12v ignition source (I used an 'add-a-fuse' on the A/C fuse, that also powers my LC-1)

The black goes to a ground, I used the nut on the driver side strut tower
 

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I could have beat you to this NoRemorse I have done so many shift light installs on 3 different redlines and about 5 or 6 cobalt ss's LOL....
 

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ouch...self stripping wire tap...

...better hope that that thing doesnt eat through your coil wire...you might want to un-install that and re-solder the wire together, heat shrink it, and tape it up...just to make sure the thing doesnt break...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
socalsilverRL said:
ouch...self stripping wire tap...

...better hope that that thing doesnt eat through your coil wire...you might want to un-install that and re-solder the wire together, heat shink it, and tape it up...just to make sure the thing doesnt break...
They are fine if you use the right size, it barely cuts through, but makes contact with the wire.

I have never had a problem with them.

That being said, I solder most things, but rarely when it is when I am wire 'tapping', I rather use a wire tap than cutting the wire itself, or have the solder drip onto other wires on the loom and melt the sheathing.
 

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^yea...i know how they work...it just weakens the integrity of that wire...especially if it is moving around at all.

With most aftermarket car alarms, the people that install them often use self stripping wire taps...which leads to IGN and electrical problems down the line, alot of times. Ive seen wires break right at where you tapped it a few times. I know it can happen.

I was just sayin, thats a vital part of your engine, id make sure that the wire does not break.

otherwise...p0304
 

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Discussion Starter #11
socalsilverRL said:
^yea...i know how they work...it just weakens the integrity of that wire...especially if it is moving around at all.

With most aftermarket car alarms, the people that install them often use self stripping wire taps...which leads to IGN and electrical problems down the line, alot of times. Ive seen wires break right at where you tapped it a few times. I know it can happen.

I was just sayin, thats a vital part of your engine, id make sure that the wire does not break.

otherwise...p0304
I agree with motion.... but I always tape them up (at least the wires leading up to it) as seen in my pics.
 

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how to solder...

1 x soldering iron
1 x solder (roll)

heat up soldering iron. touch iron to tip of wire to be soldered. touch solder to tip of iron on wire, melt solder into wire (solder will stick to tip of iron if the wire is not hot, just work tip around the wire to be soldered). get even amount of solder all around wire. let cool. wrap w/ heatshrink or electrical tape.
p.s. try not to breath in fumes...they will cause lung cancer...like breathing in welding gas fumes...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
socalsilverRL said:
how to solder...

1 x soldering iron
1 x solder (roll)

heat up soldering iron. touch iron to tip of wire to be soldered. touch solder to tip of iron on wire, melt solder into wire (solder will stick to tip of iron if the wire is not hot, just work tip around the wire to be soldered). get even amount of solder all around wire. let cool. wrap w/ heatshrink or electrical tape.
p.s. try not to breath in fumes...they will cause lung cancer...like breathing in welding gas fumes...
You want the tip coated in solder, it makes it last longer and conduct heat better. But you are not soposed to touch the solder to the tip other than that (I do because it;s usually faster though) because it will eat away the tip. You are to heat the wire until it is hot enough to melt the solder itself, this also makes sure it's hot enough for the solder to wick into the strands of the multi strand wire. You should also probably use a heat sink attached to the wire if it is near any sort of electronics (to keep the heat from transferring into it, and possibly unsoldering it's components, or just destroying it)
 

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^i usually uninstall the wire that im soldering. If it cant be uninstalled, i usually try to make sure the place im soldering is a good distance away from anything electronic atached to the wire.
 

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socalsilverRL said:
^i usually uninstall the wire that im soldering. If it cant be uninstalled, i usually try to make sure the place im soldering is a good distance away from anything electronic atached to the wire.
Yea, that part of it is mainly for soldering to PCBs
 

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Oh i know how to solder. Just figured it would make a good how-to for someone. I would do it but i get too excited about installing things and always forget to take pictures. And i don't need people telling me that my engine bay is dirty or anything. The trick about soldering this is to keep where you are soldering far enough away from the connector that it doesn't weaken it when you are trying to heat it up and get the solder to take. I have all the stuff to do it, even the shrink wrap. I guess all my R/C car stuff is coming to use after all.
 

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^thats where i learned to solder (Tamiya Blackfoot)...then on stained glass...then on car audio, then on car alarms...done a few PCB's, but i had supervision on that (cause i have no idea WTF i was soldering...i just soldered it...)
 

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Discussion Starter #18
all4glh said:
Oh i know how to solder. Just figured it would make a good how-to for someone. I would do it but i get too excited about installing things and always forget to take pictures. And i don't need people telling me that my engine bay is dirty or anything. The trick about soldering this is to keep where you are soldering far enough away from the connector that it doesn't weaken it when you are trying to heat it up and get the solder to take. I have all the stuff to do it, even the shrink wrap. I guess all my R/C car stuff is coming to use after all.
lol, i hate taking pics of my bay.

Hate to say it people, clean engine bay does not equal fast....
 

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socalsilverRL said:
^thats where i learned to solder (Tamiya Blackfoot)...then on stained glass...then on car audio, then on car alarms...done a few PCB's, but i had supervision on that (cause i have no idea WTF i was soldering...i just soldered it...)
LOL, I have an RC10T, XXT-CR, Clodbuster custom rock crawler and an electric helicopter. I started soldering R/C when I was 14. I started soldering some circuitboards and stuff when i was deployed. This should be a piece of cake, but knowing me i'll want to trace the wire somewhere so i don't solder right next to the plug and make it look cleaner.

NoRemorse said:
lol, i hate taking pics of my bay.

Hate to say it people, clean engine bay does not equal fast....
Yes it's true, but it keeps from shit falling on your face when you're under it.
 
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