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Taken from CSS. Original Thread.
how to Rebuild IC pump - Cobalt SS Network


Its known that the Ic Pump fails on the Cobalt SS and Ion redline. As well as the svt lightning and svt cobra uses the same pump and has the same problem. In the past the only fis was the Hammer fix, or replacing it.

What causes the failure are the brushes in the motor wearing out or carbon dust causing the brushes to get stuck on there guides and not make contact with the armature.

If you don’t understand the above statement then maybe this fix isn’t for you.
this will require fabrication and soldering skills. Its kind of like replacing brushes on alternators, starters or RC car motors.

Your gonna need >
String
Soldering iron
Solder
Rosin Flux (even if you use flux core solder.)
Small to medium standard screwdriver (“flat head is a engine not a tool” My auto shop teacher for high school)
Needle nose pliers small.

13MM socket/retched or gear wrench
¾ hose coupler.
Vice grips.


Now I’m not going to go into detail on how to remove the ic pump form the car , its pretty self explanatory once you look at it , but that’s what the 13mm ,hose coupler and vice grips are for.
Your going to need to jack the car up of have it on ramps. Two 13mm bolts hold the pump on. Use the vice grips for the spring hose clamps.(I replaced my spring claps with screw type clamps)
When you get the pump off connect to two open hoses together with the coupler . that way you can still drive the car if you need to, just don’t do any long high speed runs cause the intercooler is no longer functional


Heres the pump.


ne the back are (motor side ) there are three sets of tabs.


Bend the tabs up(just enough to clear the cap) with a screw driver or needle nose pliers .Once all the tabs are bent up pray the cap form the body with a standard screwdriver. There will be some resistance due to the rubber o-ring .



Once you get this far the Brushes will be stuck on the end bearing. And it will feel like it might break, almost like its spring loaded, with some finagling they should come free.


Heres the end of the motor with the cap removed, you can see were the armature was starting to develop a grove were the brush turned sideways. While you have it open take some isopropyl alcohol and q-tips and clean the armature


Here is the end cap. The Brushes are worn down to the nub. Now if your brushes aren’t worn all the way down , you may just be able to clean out the inside and resalable the motor. But since its apart might as well change them.


Use your needle nose pliers to pull the spring back out of the brush guide then with your other hand slide the spring up the post and off, the brush can then be removed from the guide.. It helps if you have a vice to hold the cap.




Now place cap in vice, and with your soldering iron heat the solder joint . leave the solder , it will be reused later. use your needle nose pliers to lift the tab out of the hot solder.



Lift the whole assembly out of the cap.



At this point you need new brushes. I would tell you part number I used, but every ACE hardware Carrey different stock. Take you cap and find a bursh that will fit in the cap. Or one that alittle larger then it can be shaped to fit with a file, or drimle. I happened to find a burhs that fit like a glove but the lead was on the wrong side.


New brush in brush guide. The brush it a little long so I cut it down and filed to the right length. Since the lead is on the back and not the top , you must be sure to make sure the lead wont touch the body of the motor.


Now take your brush assembly and place it in a vice. The lead is hard soldered to the coil. So I just cut the lead at the post. And soldered the new brush lead to it.


New brush in the cap. Note the safety wire holding the brush in place.


Put everything back together in the cap in reveres order. The spring will be off center due to the lead being in the rear.


Now when you go to put the cap back on the motor , take string , or thin safety wire and loop it around back of the spring. This is so you can remove spring tension and slide the brushes past the end bearing.


Once the brushes are past the bearing remove the sting. There is a notch and guide on the cap and motor , make sure they are lined up.
 

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ya that just seems like alot and id prolly get frustrated and **** it up. who wants to rebuild mine for me :)
 

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How much did this end up costing you? Savings may be a factor for some.
 

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I'm on my 3rd pump. I have 2 here, both need a new impeller. I searched on line for the bosch part, but gave up after a few hours of searching, calling places... :(

Copied and pasted from the how to thread. I didn't see this one , didn't know there were 2, mods feel free to delete my post from the how to. ;)
 

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I ordered a new pump for mine, i'm going to try this on my old one so i can have a backup for when the next one fails.

thanks for this "how to"!
 

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Anyone ever thought of maybe rebuilding one with a Brushless Motor instead? I'm doing this to my car probably tonight. It dawned on me to check for proper operation on the IC pump today since I have neglected to do so for about 30k and behold! it HAD indeed failed.

BTW, I was on the Cobalt Forums and had read a discussion about some using a Bilge Pump as an alternative. Anyone ever explore that option? It seems these pumps fail too much to be acceptably useful to keep without design improvements on the horizion.
 

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Yeah, ZZP was saying that Bosch pumps had outperformed a wide variety of other pumps on the market. I just finished disassembling mine, It looks like not only are the brushes pretty much gone, the axle looks like it is bent and has a lot of runout. I will probably be getting a new unit with this discovery. It's amazing the same pump can be priced so widely on the internet. Apparrently Land Rover uses the same pump on a SC edition of some sort and just by having "land rover" in front of the BOSCH it jumps the price up 70 bucks lol.
Silly Land Rover.

On a side note, ZZP seems to be the cheapest I've found so far for the BOSCH unit.

Update.
After inspection of the impellor side of the pump I also found it is cracked and likely wont work anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
These pumps work hard. Unfortunately, most the work they do is for waste. These pumps are running even when they don't need too. If you want your pump to last longer, put it on a switch and turn it on 30 seconds before you need it.
 

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Thats an Excellent Idea, The new pump is on its way. As of today they have 5 more on amazon for $60 and if you have amazon prime the next-day-shipping is $4

Just search- Bosch 0392020073 Electric Water Pump on amazon. I couldnt find a better deal for the pump.

I think I have a toggle switch in my garage and some wiring I can build into the car. :) Ill explore where I want to install the switch. I try not to do much drilling and such on the car especially the interior so I'll look for a space out of the way that it can be bolted or fastened to.

For those thinking of the same project, Ill post up some photos of the work when its done. I might actually install an LED light too as an indicator of a functioning pump.
 

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At that price, just buy 2. That'll last a few yrs
 

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That guy is awesome ^^^
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Lingenfelter used this same pump on their a/w builds. Good enough for me.
I tried a cheaper pump, and it was exactly that. Caused a lot of headaches.
 

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I might actually install an LED light too as an indicator of a functioning pump.
Good Idea, but wont the light just mean there's power going to the pump? How would you set it up so the light would be on when the pump is actually pumping and off when not pumping? Driving around with a failing pump, I think, is the reason my ring on #4 eventually went. Expensive fix.
 

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A flow switch would be easy enough to install inline to indicate flow. I check my oil and other fluids/tire air pressure and check for flow every other tank of fuel or so, not really an inconvenience.
 

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The part number given is for a vw electric water pump. My question is flow rate? Are they similar and if so the vw electric pump looks thinner than our pumps. Can anybody confirm this? About to pull the trigger but want to make sure other people have used this vw electric pump as a less expensive but just as effective intercooler pump.
 

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Did you buy? This is about the only one I ever see, ford lightning and all
 
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