Redline owner again
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Well it's been a while since I updated this post
First I cleaned up the engine and added a little pizzazz
I've also been having a problem with the Redline after the tune. The car has been bucking and jerking when doing WOT pulls at 4k. Bucking has been so violent actually popped out of gear
I ordered an HPTuners and did a driving log and sent to a tuner. He says the car is running lean on WOT and suggested to replace the upstream o2 with a Bosh unit. I'm gonna try and get one in the next couple days and do another log
I'm also in the process of picking up another Redline. The current owner picked the car up in Tampa about 2 months ago, did some tuning/upgrades (3.0 pulley, port/polish blower, long tubes, ect) he's making a run to ZZP in Michigan and is dropping the car off to me.
Body wise the car needs some work (cracked fender, window moldings, various scuffs/fade) but the car has almost no rust and runs great. He did all the major maintenance (timing chain, Southbend clutch, ect.)
She's a black 2005 non-Comp car. Supposed to be delivered to me today 4/17
First I cleaned up the engine and added a little pizzazz
I've also been having a problem with the Redline after the tune. The car has been bucking and jerking when doing WOT pulls at 4k. Bucking has been so violent actually popped out of gear
I ordered an HPTuners and did a driving log and sent to a tuner. He says the car is running lean on WOT and suggested to replace the upstream o2 with a Bosh unit. I'm gonna try and get one in the next couple days and do another log
I'm also in the process of picking up another Redline. The current owner picked the car up in Tampa about 2 months ago, did some tuning/upgrades (3.0 pulley, port/polish blower, long tubes, ect) he's making a run to ZZP in Michigan and is dropping the car off to me.
Body wise the car needs some work (cracked fender, window moldings, various scuffs/fade) but the car has almost no rust and runs great. He did all the major maintenance (timing chain, Southbend clutch, ect.)
She's a black 2005 non-Comp car. Supposed to be delivered to me today 4/17
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Ok update time: this is kinda a long one so i apologize. I got the new upstream o2 installed on the 2006 and I've gotta take another drive log for the tuner
The 2005 has come along nicely as well. The car was delivered as discussed but with a few hiccups. Major one being the exhaust. The PO had an exhaust shop cobble together what they had on hand to get some sort of muffler on the car as he was about to bring her up to me.
Unfortunately that was a very bad repair attempt because they didn't even have the stock pipe size and went with a tiny diameter pipe that I'm guessing the muffler couldn't take the pressure and blew out lol. I have since swapped to a ZZP 2.5 cat back system.
The car had 2 s\c bypass solenoids installed on the car at delivery, and discovered this after cleaning up the engine bay a little (original one still mounted, 2nd one tucked away and electrical connector plugged in). The IM hose was capped off. I soon discovered the reason behind this after undoing all this and putting everything back to stock.
The solenoid wasn't working like it should and the PO replaced it which didn't fix it and didn't go any further. Hooking everything up properly resulted in little to no boost since the solenoid is a default open valve and keying on the car the ecm closes the valve and only opens it to limit the boost when needed like shifting gears and IATs get too high. The ecm was not closing the solenoid causing a boost leak resulting in 1-3 lbs of boost at WOT. Both solenoids were tested and working, I had voltage at the connector which is as far as I got since I just removed the solenoid altogether and can monitor my IATs myself. The vacuum line is now connected to my boost gauge.
The car still has the actuator installed, only the solenoid was removed which means the ecm can't limit the boost when it wants to which it wasn't doing anyway. I'm still only getting 10lbs of boost which I'm told is because of the long tube headers and 2.5 cat back.
I then hit a salvage yard and surprisingly found 2 QC Ions. I needed the A-C pillar covers on both sides, but they were smashed on both sets so I had to get a little creative and added a little pizzaz to her
Aside from some regular maintenance like sway bar bushings and links. I've been having fun with the car. Here's the full mod list so far
-new Cloyes timing chain
-South Bend clutch
-tires
-3.0 pulley
-3'' ZZP CAI
-Ported\polished blower
-60 lbs fuel injectors
-long tube headers (catless)
-2.5 ZZP cat back
-tuned on 93 octane
-head lights
-boost\Aeroforce Interceptor gauges
-OTTP short throw shifter
-aftermarket head unit (Dual)
-Moog sway bar bushings
-sway bar end links
-Custom Grilles lower grille
The 2005 has come along nicely as well. The car was delivered as discussed but with a few hiccups. Major one being the exhaust. The PO had an exhaust shop cobble together what they had on hand to get some sort of muffler on the car as he was about to bring her up to me.
Unfortunately that was a very bad repair attempt because they didn't even have the stock pipe size and went with a tiny diameter pipe that I'm guessing the muffler couldn't take the pressure and blew out lol. I have since swapped to a ZZP 2.5 cat back system.
The car had 2 s\c bypass solenoids installed on the car at delivery, and discovered this after cleaning up the engine bay a little (original one still mounted, 2nd one tucked away and electrical connector plugged in). The IM hose was capped off. I soon discovered the reason behind this after undoing all this and putting everything back to stock.
The solenoid wasn't working like it should and the PO replaced it which didn't fix it and didn't go any further. Hooking everything up properly resulted in little to no boost since the solenoid is a default open valve and keying on the car the ecm closes the valve and only opens it to limit the boost when needed like shifting gears and IATs get too high. The ecm was not closing the solenoid causing a boost leak resulting in 1-3 lbs of boost at WOT. Both solenoids were tested and working, I had voltage at the connector which is as far as I got since I just removed the solenoid altogether and can monitor my IATs myself. The vacuum line is now connected to my boost gauge.
The car still has the actuator installed, only the solenoid was removed which means the ecm can't limit the boost when it wants to which it wasn't doing anyway. I'm still only getting 10lbs of boost which I'm told is because of the long tube headers and 2.5 cat back.
I then hit a salvage yard and surprisingly found 2 QC Ions. I needed the A-C pillar covers on both sides, but they were smashed on both sets so I had to get a little creative and added a little pizzaz to her
Aside from some regular maintenance like sway bar bushings and links. I've been having fun with the car. Here's the full mod list so far
-new Cloyes timing chain
-South Bend clutch
-tires
-3.0 pulley
-3'' ZZP CAI
-Ported\polished blower
-60 lbs fuel injectors
-long tube headers (catless)
-2.5 ZZP cat back
-tuned on 93 octane
-head lights
-boost\Aeroforce Interceptor gauges
-OTTP short throw shifter
-aftermarket head unit (Dual)
-Moog sway bar bushings
-sway bar end links
-Custom Grilles lower grille
Here's current pics of my babies
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Update 5/22
This last week has been a mess. I did get me new wheels for the Comp and test fitting them has shown I need to do something with the caliper as the cruddy look just doesn't work lol. I tossed on some temporary wheels to get these up to the shop to switch the tires over.
My 2005 pretty much gave me a headache last week. After doing brakes and dealing with the caliper not resetting I started getting a noise in the engine that sounded like the chain. I contacted my buddy who heard it and confirmed it was the chain. I was pissed because I was told several time the chain was replaced. After some back and forth on the FB group I just pressed on since I'm at fault too for not requesting documentation on the job. The members in those groups can be cucks at times, but I digress...
Fast forward to yesterday (Saturday) I have ordered a new chain kit (balance and timing), and dropped the car off.
I get a call saying what had actually happened was the timing guide bolt broke off in the head and was backing out which was causing my rattle noise. He said if it had gone any longer serious damage to the engine could have happened, so it looks like we caught it just in time!!
He replaced the bolt with the updated plug design and he said this car is good to go. I asked him about the chain, he said it's tight as can be and shows paint marks so at some point recently someone was in there
This last week has been a mess. I did get me new wheels for the Comp and test fitting them has shown I need to do something with the caliper as the cruddy look just doesn't work lol. I tossed on some temporary wheels to get these up to the shop to switch the tires over.
My 2005 pretty much gave me a headache last week. After doing brakes and dealing with the caliper not resetting I started getting a noise in the engine that sounded like the chain. I contacted my buddy who heard it and confirmed it was the chain. I was pissed because I was told several time the chain was replaced. After some back and forth on the FB group I just pressed on since I'm at fault too for not requesting documentation on the job. The members in those groups can be cucks at times, but I digress...
Fast forward to yesterday (Saturday) I have ordered a new chain kit (balance and timing), and dropped the car off.
I get a call saying what had actually happened was the timing guide bolt broke off in the head and was backing out which was causing my rattle noise. He said if it had gone any longer serious damage to the engine could have happened, so it looks like we caught it just in time!!
He replaced the bolt with the updated plug design and he said this car is good to go. I asked him about the chain, he said it's tight as can be and shows paint marks so at some point recently someone was in there
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Pics of the new wheels for my Comp
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1,873 Posts
My 03 sedan, that was my first car, lost the engine to that top guide bolt. I didnt catch it soon enough and bent 12 valves.
Ruined the block. During tear down I actually found the bolt and have it still. Really want to frame it at some point. lmao
But im glad you caught it early enough so that didnt happen to you.
Man, I love those wheels! They look great on the car, too! What tires you going with?
Ruined the block. During tear down I actually found the bolt and have it still. Really want to frame it at some point. lmao
But im glad you caught it early enough so that didnt happen to you.
Man, I love those wheels! They look great on the car, too! What tires you going with?
I should see if I can get the bolt back hold onto it as a reminder of that too
Thanks man I'm so relieved
I have a set of brand new Continental Extreme Contact tires I was gonna mount but I'm thinking about the BF Goodrich G Force Comp 2s
Another update: Red went in for some more work, a fuel leak and some front end noises. While dropping her off I got Pearl back and the chain started making noise again after 2 days!
Instead of taking her back down I decided to pull the valve cover and discovered the tensioner has failed. I put the motor at TDC cylinder 1 compression stroke, removed the old tensioner (it literally exploded in my hand), replaced it with the updated version. a week later no noise.
I installed a new OTTP shift knob for my short shifter that I liked more than the old one, and changed the oil in the transmission using Royal Purple 75W90 oil. A few other odds and ends and she's been a good daily driver while Red is being fixed
Maintaining 2 Redlines is quite a feat lol
Instead of taking her back down I decided to pull the valve cover and discovered the tensioner has failed. I put the motor at TDC cylinder 1 compression stroke, removed the old tensioner (it literally exploded in my hand), replaced it with the updated version. a week later no noise.
I installed a new OTTP shift knob for my short shifter that I liked more than the old one, and changed the oil in the transmission using Royal Purple 75W90 oil. A few other odds and ends and she's been a good daily driver while Red is being fixed
Maintaining 2 Redlines is quite a feat lol
Pics of the chain and shifter
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The whole timing chain system on these cars is ridiculous. The longevity of an engine depends on one insignificant component. Is there a reason they made these interference engines? Was it because of performance?those tensioners. man oh man.
maintaining 2 ecotecs is oh so fun.
Shouldve used amsoil in the trans. and engine. and coolanthaha
The knob looks good too!
Im actually told I used the wrong oil in the trans and I could damage the syncros if I continue. Ill be draining the oil back out and not driving the car until I get a proper oil in there. Ill be researching it today. Ill probably go with an OEM oil but idk yet.
People in the groups are talking about Redline Oils, ill check that out too
From what I've been told alot of parts stores oils have friction modifiers and that's a big no no for the F35 trans.
I found a couple part number from AC Delco and cross reference parts stores keep mentioning "syncromesh". The Royal Purple stuff I put in has no mention of that. I used " Royal Purple MaxGear". Said it can be used in rear ends and transmissions but I don't think they had the F35 in mind. They don't even list Saturn as compatible on their website for this stuff. Guess I fudged that one up lol
Oh well that's how you learn right?
I found a couple part number from AC Delco and cross reference parts stores keep mentioning "syncromesh". The Royal Purple stuff I put in has no mention of that. I used " Royal Purple MaxGear". Said it can be used in rear ends and transmissions but I don't think they had the F35 in mind. They don't even list Saturn as compatible on their website for this stuff. Guess I fudged that one up lol
Oh well that's how you learn right?
One thing I have learned from this is don't listen to Amazon website when it comes to compatibility for transmission oil for the Saturn Ion!! Amazon's algorithms are complete garbage and it just references the same oils used in the base Ion transmissions which is not even close to what the F35 needs
The F35 needs AC Delco 805270 GL4 high performance manual transmission oil part #19351859 according to research and talking to other members that went through this
Even the dealerships have it wrong if you walk in with the above part number and its not in stock it will cross reference 21018899 which is the base model F23 transmission. That is NOT the correct oil, I can't believe all this can be so confusing for something as simple as transmission oil but if you have the F35 transmission the OEM oil can be bought on Amazon's website and ignore the "this does not fit" bull crap they tell you. I haven't researched any further than that so I'm not sure what Amsoil, Redline Oils equivalent would be. Many have used these and are happy so someone might have that info. I'm going with OEM recommended oil
I ordered 3 qts of this stuff and should be delivered to me tomorrow
Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
The F35 needs AC Delco 805270 GL4 high performance manual transmission oil part #19351859 according to research and talking to other members that went through this
Even the dealerships have it wrong if you walk in with the above part number and its not in stock it will cross reference 21018899 which is the base model F23 transmission. That is NOT the correct oil, I can't believe all this can be so confusing for something as simple as transmission oil but if you have the F35 transmission the OEM oil can be bought on Amazon's website and ignore the "this does not fit" bull crap they tell you. I haven't researched any further than that so I'm not sure what Amsoil, Redline Oils equivalent would be. Many have used these and are happy so someone might have that info. I'm going with OEM recommended oil
I ordered 3 qts of this stuff and should be delivered to me tomorrow
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1,873 Posts
It is. A timing chain should not be a part of 100k maintenance. And if you dont change your oil enough.
F23 uses ATF iirc. I know the f35 is a ticking time bomb on a stock car. If it was me, I would have probably kept the RP and sent it. Worse case f23 swap the car and have a better trans that you can still find in junk yards everywhere.
I dont really like using amazon or ebay to get parts numbers. Rock auto if im trying to cross reference prices. But I usually get part numbers from work/pro demand.
F23 uses ATF iirc. I know the f35 is a ticking time bomb on a stock car. If it was me, I would have probably kept the RP and sent it. Worse case f23 swap the car and have a better trans that you can still find in junk yards everywhere.
I dont really like using amazon or ebay to get parts numbers. Rock auto if im trying to cross reference prices. But I usually get part numbers from work/pro demand.
I agree 100% on that one!! Especially given the intricacy and what's involved to access the chain
Yep its ATF the 21018899 oil is AC Delcos auto trans oil that's also used in their manuals too. A few years back I had a 2004 base model quadcoupe 5 speed and changed the oil because I was having 3rd gear issues, and it was a recommendation. It didn't fix my issue which I kinda expected but I remember putting ATF in there.
Not sure why GM went with a problematic transmission for the Redline. So many better applications out there but it is what it is
The reason I did all this was at first I was having issues with 5th gear. I thought "at least I could say the oil was changed" but I've discovered after some driving habits of mine I believe to be the shift cables. Haven't really dug into it yet. now the old oil is long gone I'm just trying to get something in there the transmission likes
Update: it seems this 2005 has not been scarce on the amount of issues I've encountered lol. Hey that's a project car right lol
I've recently encountered a water leak on the passenger side floor. 2 days ago after a heavy rain it was a real problem
At first I thought it was the sunroof drains. I've been having issues opening the sunroof, but I was able to get it open, I blew the drain out with compressed air. It did seem backed up because there was water pooled in that corner and after blowing it out it was gone. I pulled the pillar cover, the tube was pinched but not closed off
Using the garden hose is what revealed the source of my leak. Turned out the rubber seals on the pillar covers shifted out of place which allowed water into the door channel
As a temporary fix I hot glued the seals back in place to slow the amount of water entering the car. It seemed to fix it for the time being while parts are coming. I may have to replace the door weatherstrip too but not sure yet
I ordered some 1x1/8 rubber tape seal from Amazon and ill install it this weekend to see if that works
I've recently encountered a water leak on the passenger side floor. 2 days ago after a heavy rain it was a real problem
At first I thought it was the sunroof drains. I've been having issues opening the sunroof, but I was able to get it open, I blew the drain out with compressed air. It did seem backed up because there was water pooled in that corner and after blowing it out it was gone. I pulled the pillar cover, the tube was pinched but not closed off
Using the garden hose is what revealed the source of my leak. Turned out the rubber seals on the pillar covers shifted out of place which allowed water into the door channel
As a temporary fix I hot glued the seals back in place to slow the amount of water entering the car. It seemed to fix it for the time being while parts are coming. I may have to replace the door weatherstrip too but not sure yet
I ordered some 1x1/8 rubber tape seal from Amazon and ill install it this weekend to see if that works
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