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Discussion Starter · #81 ·
Update 7/2

The new seal for the TOB arrived today so I went ahead and installed it, installed the TOB in the transmission, I got the transmission installed in the car (thanks so much for the tip on using the axle to rotate the shaft to line it up) took about an hour of cussing but I eventually got her line up and she went in. I tightened down the BH bolts and took a break

I was feeling so good that I went ahead and got the subframe in too. Was a little easier this time. I just rested the rear of the cradle on the trans jack, and used my floor jack on the front. Both sides being on wheels now, I rolled it under the car, and jacked it up, however the engine was still out of place so I used the jack stands on the front to hold her up while the floor jack could jack up the engine out of the way. After that I just had to prop each corner up, and start the bolts. Snugged the cradle down, installed all the mounts, and the engine was sitting on her own weight again.

That's as far as I got today as I'm pretty exhausted working in 90* temps and sun beating down lol. I have to track down some bolts now because some were missing (starter bolt, aftercooler pump bracket, and 2 BH bolts) and this metal ring fell out of the driver side axle seal.

After that I'll begin reinstalling the suspension, hook the clutch line up, and bleed the system (no idea how to do that)
 

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First time always takes the longest. And this is a very similar process for most FWD cars, so its not just Ion specific.
Good catch on that seal. Would def cause a headache.

That is awesome on the cradle! Make sure to hit it with some of that rust prevention stuff you guys use up north. I know those cradles arent cheap.

I quoted shipping one for an S-Series from Texas to New Jersey for some, and shipping alone was almost $300.
 

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Sweeeeeet! I am glad its back together!!
Junk yard if you can for the bolts. You can probably find everything but the IC bolts on a base model.

Hopefully youll be slamming gears in the next few days!
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
Oh yeah that's a good thought. Ill have to see if I can pick some up tomorrow and hit the cradle while the suspension is out! Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
Sweeeeeet! I am glad its back together!!
Junk yard if you can for the bolts. You can probably find everything but the IC bolts on a base model.

Hopefully youll be slamming gears in the next few days!
Hopefully!! Fingers crossed!!

The rest looks like it should be a cake walk just little worried about bleeding the system. Never done it before and I hear it can be a pain, needing special tools too
 

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Yes. It can be a pain. Ive tried those vacuum bleeders with no luck.
Last 2 times I did one, I cracked the bleeder some, put a piece of clear hose over it, and into a jar with some brake fluid.
And slowly pumped the clutch pedal a few time. I think I had my girl pump the pedal like 8-10 times. Then I would close it again, pump it, repeat. Something like that. Seems to be a different process every time i deal with them.

I should have told you to bench bleed the slave before installed to help make it easier :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #87 ·
Yes. It can be a pain. Ive tried those vacuum bleeders with no luck.
Last 2 times I did one, I cracked the bleeder some, put a piece of clear hose over it, and into a jar with some brake fluid.
And slowly pumped the clutch pedal a few time. I think I had my girl pump the pedal like 8-10 times. Then I would close it again, pump it, repeat. Something like that. Seems to be a different process every time i deal with them.

I should have told you to bench bleed the slave before installed to help make it easier :confused:
I was wondering if I needed to do that. I'm also talking with a guy who just did the clutch on his Comp and he said he didn't do it. Honestly I should have asked here before putting it all together.

I don't wanna pull it back apart to do that so hopefully I can get it bled like this
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Update: 7/3

I think I got the clutch bled. I had an issue at first with the hand pump as I was using a reservoir with long tubing, brass fittings which I think created leak points and wasn't holding pressure very well. After a while I cut the brass fitting off the reservoir tool and hooked it directly to the hand pump and pumped up to 25. It held pressure after that. That's when I saw fluid coming up with bubbles. After a while pumping pedal and putting vacuum I didn't see many bubbles

I've got some pretty firm pressure on the clutch, at least enough to drive. I'll go back out and try the pedal again in a little bit but I'll know for sure once I drive her

I got the steering rack installed, new axle seals in, and torqued the subframe bolts to 148ft lbs

Fingers crossed in can take her for a drive soon
 

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Discussion Starter · #89 ·
Update 7/3

I'm back to bleeding the clutch again. Not because of low pressure. My pedal was still firm this morning when I checked after sitting overnight. When I slowly depressed the pedal the pressure was gone. Idk whats going on there, but normal depress good pressure, slowly depress no pressure. I've gotten in contact with Josh Billheimer from the groups, this morning he walked me through several bleed procedures. Starting with

-syringe to pull air from bleeder screw on the elbow
-submerged hose in brake fluid, pumped pedal
-pumped pedal 15 times, held down, cracked bleeder

every method has shown solid fluid in the hose and I've got a real nice firm pedal pretty much the way it should be when I normal depress, but still when I depress it slowly I have nothing. I'm beginning to think I've still got some faulty parts.

I've resorted back to my original setup again today for bleeding, using the MityVac and a reservoir to catch fluid pulled out as I've been told the way I vacuum bled yesterday was wrong as the air pulled out had nowhere to go. I finally got the MityVac system to seal and hold pressure by changing my hoses and fittings

Idk what else to do at this point. It looks like I may have to pull everything apart again 😔
 

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Check for leaks. Make sure everything is snug.
Has your clutch master been replaced? Or just the slave?
These can be a huge pain to bleed. Don't give up just yet
 

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Discussion Starter · #91 ·
Check for leaks. Make sure everything is snug.
Has your clutch master been replaced? Or just the slave?
These can be a huge pain to bleed. Don't give up just yet
Everything is tight. I found some leakage on the ground but I later determined it was from residual fluid from pulling the line off the bleeder valve. No other leaks were found

The master was never replaced in my ownership but I'm assuming it has been in the past, i wound up pulling it off, it didn't have the rubber ball. It was hard. Not sure if that's a factory updated part or aftermarket. The rod has alot of play, not sure if that's supposed to. I covered both nipples on the cylinder and moved the rod in and out. It had little to no spring action. Like I said I don't know how these are supposed to function properly.

The bushing in the pedal was still there and tight, but it broke into pieces when attempting to remove. I could see it was wearing down and not long for this world

Should I just replace the master since its already out? I already have a new bushing and will be replacing that
 

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Update 7/6

I got the clutch pedal out and at this point I'm just gonna replace the whole clutch system.

I ordered a new pedal and master cylinder from ZZP, I also got a stainless braided line from OTTP. Once everything arrives, I'll install it,
bleed the system, and put the rest of the suspension back together and take her for a drive
 

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Discussion Starter · #93 ·
Update

The new pedal is installed and I'm happy to say I will never install a pedal in these cars again......my back!.....lol

TIP! Take the driver seat out! I can't imagine doing that with it in there, unless your some sort of acrobat contortionist

Just waiting on the stainless braided clutch line and I can re-bleed the system
 

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I feel your pain. I've done 3 pedals in my redline. With the seat in. And I'm fat. Lmao it's terrible.

That braided line is a nice piece. I'm actually looking at having some made for base models since they're discontinued and no one can find used ones.
I had a large stash I was selling for a pretty penny and lost em all in a fire earlier this year.

Anyway. When the clutch line gets there, attach it to the clutch master and pump it a few times to get fluid in there to help the bleeding process.
Keep up with that dumb little plastic bushing and you'll never need to do a pedal again.
The clutch masters don't last very long. 40-50k of city/spirited driving.
If you drop kick the clutch everytime though, expect sooner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #95 ·
I feel your pain. I've done 3 pedals in my redline. With the seat in. And I'm fat. Lmao it's terrible.

That braided line is a nice piece. I'm actually looking at having some made for base models since they're discontinued and no one can find used ones.
I had a large stash I was selling for a pretty penny and lost em all in a fire earlier this year.

Anyway. When the clutch line gets there, attach it to the clutch master and pump it a few times to get fluid in there to help the bleeding process.
Keep up with that dumb little plastic bushing and you'll never need to do a pedal again.
The clutch masters don't last very long. 40-50k of city/spirited driving.
If you drop kick the clutch everytime though, expect sooner.
I was glad when the new pedal came, it had a bushing in it already so I can hold onto this one for next time. Puts me ahead of the game lol

I was also surprised when I noticed the master is basically plastic! I mean yeah there's a metal rod but plastic housing, nipples, lines!! This thing does not feel very robust considering this is technically a performance car

Thanks for the tips

While I wait for the line, I turned my attention back towards the suspension. I'm having trouble getting the axles back in. Not real sure what the best approach is? If I can just use a hammer to tap in? I don't wanna damage the joints inside. Or if there's a safer approach? They are new stage 1 axles. Dont wanna mess them up
 

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If it makes you feel any better, base models use the same clutch master. Literally.
Lube the rod, and cram it in.
What I do if theyre being stubborn, put the nut on so its flush with the threads, and rubber mallet. May have to twist and wack. But itll go.

Another secret. ZZP stage one is rebranded napa gold...
 

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Discussion Starter · #97 ·
Update 7/7

She's almost back together. I got the replacement bolts today for the starter, bell housing, and aftercooler bracket.

Got the axles installed by repositioning the clip on the splines, they popped right in place. Got the suspension installed again and she's on 4 wheels again 👍

Only thing I'm waiting on now is the new clutch line from OTTP. Not sure when I will get that as it's been shipped 2 days ago and I have nothing for tracking. Says usps doesn't even have it yet idk....

OTTP is in Michigan also 🤷‍♂️

When it finally does come I can bleed the system and take her for a ride finally
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
Update 7/8

Well it seems I certainly have no shortage of fun with this car. I got the stainless clutch line today, installed it on the master cylinder and there was another problem when I attempted to bleed the lines!
Turned out the plastic line from the reservoir that feeds the CMC spent 17yrs rubbing on the metal brake lines next to it, which wore it down and sprung a leak not allowing the master to fill with fluid

Once again I'm back to waiting on parts as a member from the FB group sold me his 85k reservoir since he's switching to automatic

I'm hoping this is it!! I'm running out of thinks to replace lol
 

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You really are running out of things to replace at this point. Lmao. At least that is an easy and cheap one to replace.
In all the manual Ions I have owned, never seen one rub a hole into it. Have seen them disintegrate though.
Car should last you a long time though with all the work you are putting into it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
You really are running out of things to replace at this point. Lmao. At least that is an easy and cheap one to replace.
In all the manual Ions I have owned, never seen one rub a hole into it. Have seen them disintegrate though.
Car should last you a long time though with all the work you are putting into it.
I'm trying to get something going with this one until the new one comes.

I was able to cut the line away from the fitting without damaging it. My plan was to go to the auto part store and get some nylon tubing and a couple fuel line crimps, and hook it back up to see if I can bleed the system

I haven't found any discussions about this subject except "replace the reservoir" and the thread goes dead. I actually searched the part numbers and this part is discontinued and getting scarce to find
 

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