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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
buy the way the rates are as follows:
progress: 160 front / 140 rear
sprint: 145 front/ 120 rear
intrax 150 front/ 140 rear
eibach is locked up tighter than a nuns..... nevermind
(lord i apologize to all............)
b+g not low enough anyway
stock coming
your welocome
buy the way these all came from someone who actually works at the different companies not just joe schmoe.
 

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I always knew sprints sucked...when i had my QC3 I wanted progress but i just upgraded to the Redline instead hehe.
 

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OK, once again not to sound like an idiot, what exactly do these mean? zfactor, can you please elaborate?
 

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I'm looking for around 400 front, 250-300 rear, just for info...anyone who knows of a fab shop that makes custom coil springs, I'd be interested...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yah cause you will never get that with normal aftermarket springs even eibach will not go that high on this car they wouldn't give me info but didi tell me that much
 

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Jim Lewis said:
I'm looking for around 400 front, 250-300 rear, just for info...anyone who knows of a fab shop that makes custom coil springs, I'd be interested...
What the heck are you going to do with those on it will ride like a rock and you would need aftermarket struts to compensate because the springs are so stiff. The factory ones would fall apart after 5k or less miles.
 

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korax123 said:
What the heck are you going to do with those on it will ride like a rock and you would need aftermarket struts to compensate because the springs are so stiff. The factory ones would fall apart after 5k or less miles.
OK, no offense to anyone, but I race autocross and dabble in SCCA club racing and hill climbs. I don't just cruise around and look cool, and dog the ricers. OK, I dog the ricers....I want a spring rate that works for me, and 200 lbs doesn't. OF COURSE I'll be using aftermarket struts, probably Koni yellows, since the OEM dampers are fairly wimpy and I can regularly exceed their bound and rebound capabilities on my daily commute.

On my last Mustang GT, for instance, I used Kenny Brown springs with 850 lb fronts and 500 lb rears - rode stiff as hell, had HUGE sway bars, Tokica Illuminas (never again), and when I called on the car to handle, it did everything I wanted. My wife hated riding in it, and that was a nice part of the ride compromise...I got to go many places by myself or just with my sons. The cool thing was that out of 100-120 cars at any given autocross, my times were usually in the top 10 with the Z06 Vettes, worked over EVOs and STIs, and many Mod class cars.
 

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Wait, you mean you actually go to a track and race your sports car? :eek:

Now, if only more people could be as nuts as Jim....
 

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Sp00ner said:
Wait, you mean you actually go to a track and race your sports car? :eek:

Now, if only more people could be as nuts as Jim....
Yes, Supermoderator, that's correct. Now don't you have some innocent civilians to save? Funny name.

Why the heck not do autocross and club racing? Sure, it's tough on your car, but not nearly as destructive as street racing or even sanctioned drag racing, and there's skill involved, not just being able to guide your car in a straight line...
 

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zfactor said:
buy the way the rates are as follows:
progress: 160 front / 140 rear
sprint: 145 front/ 120 rear
intrax 150 front/ 140 rear
eibach is locked up tighter than a nuns..... nevermind
(lord i apologize to all............)
b+g not low enough anyway
stock coming
your welocome
buy the way these all came from someone who actually works at the different companies not just joe schmoe.
You ever get the stock rates or B+G???
 

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the higher the number the stiffer the spring. which means the stiffer the spring the better the corners you can get w/o the roll effect :D
 

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Spring rates

Jim Lewis said:
OK, no offense to anyone, but I race autocross and dabble in SCCA club racing and hill climbs. I don't just cruise around and look cool, and dog the ricers. OK, I dog the ricers....I want a spring rate that works for me, and 200 lbs doesn't. OF COURSE I'll be using aftermarket struts, probably Koni yellows, since the OEM dampers are fairly wimpy and I can regularly exceed their bound and rebound capabilities on my daily commute.

On my last Mustang GT, for instance, I used Kenny Brown springs with 850 lb fronts and 500 lb rears - rode stiff as hell, had HUGE sway bars, Tokica Illuminas (never again), and when I called on the car to handle, it did everything I wanted. My wife hated riding in it, and that was a nice part of the ride compromise...I got to go many places by myself or just with my sons. The cool thing was that out of 100-120 cars at any given autocross, my times were usually in the top 10 with the Z06 Vettes, worked over EVOs and STIs, and many Mod class cars.
I also autocross, a 99 Camaro SS with a 1LE suspension, and have a desire to lower my RL and raise the spring rates to makre it ready for racing. However, you cannot compare the spring rates from one car to another due to the differences in the geometry of the suspension. A 400 # front spring is very good in a Camaro is way to soft for a Mustang. A friend of mine has a '03 SVT Cobra and it has 500 # front springs and he can even begin to keep with me in autocross and I have only 380 # in front. He has bad brake dive when you hit the hooks, fells like you almost bottom the front suspension, and my Camaro doesn't go down in front more than 2 inches.
 

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pclear9061 said:
the higher the number the stiffer the spring. which means the stiffer the spring the better the corners you can get w/o the roll effect :D
There's more to it than that. Stiffer anti-roll bars will also give you flatter cornering. You'd be surprised how little my wife’s Riviera leans in turns. There's also roll center, which is a function of the suspension design.

Basically, reducing ride height requires stiffer springs if you want to avoid hitting the stops. Stiff springs also limit for and aft body motion from braking or acceleration. Anti-roll bars can't address that. It’s all a balance though. Stiffer springs require stiffer shocks to limit oscillation. And one solution doesn't fit all conditions. That's why you see variable damping on expensive cars like Cadillacs and Vettes.

Comparing spring rates will give you an idea how stiff the ride will be. The smaller the number the softer the ride. But you also need the static spring length to know how it's going to affect ride height. A stiffer spring must be shorter to maintain the same ride height. Ignoring the fact that many springs are wound to have a "progressive" rate near the end of travel, a coil spring basically compresses an equal amount for each additional increment of load. Let’s say each front corner weighs 900lb. A 150lb/in. spring would compress 6 inches. If it were 11 in. long in the box it would be 5 in. long with the car sitting on it.

In the old days, guys just cut springs shorter. Oddly enough that works fairly well because shortening a coil spring actually increases its rate. The bad part is torching the cut end to make the flat part. Fortunately professionally designed and manufactured springs are common and relatively reasonable today.
 

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Jim Lewis said:
I'm looking for around 400 front, 250-300 rear, just for info...anyone who knows of a fab shop that makes custom coil springs, I'd be interested...
Holy hell... my kidneys hurt just thinking about driving around town on springs that stiff. (I know you want them for auto-x)

Jim Lewis said:
OK, no offense to anyone...
You hurt my e-feelings... :p :D
 

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I think Jim Lewis sold his car since this post....i brought the thread back from the dead hehe.

I sold it due to lack of aftermarket support i think.
 

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you mean "he sold it to the lack of aftermarket support"..................?
 

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He did get rid of his redline to get a STi. He was tired of not having anything for this car.

He was a valuable member of this forum because he is a suspension expert.
 

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*plays death music* :p
 
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