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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Still a work in progress. I got the tank out and ordered a new pump. It should get delivered tomorrow. However....it is supposed to be
24 degrees or so for most of this week. We have about 4" of snow on the ground and I don't see it going away this week. I am not getting under the car until I can see bare pavement馃榿馃榿馃榿 and maybe feel my fingers!
I will post the results once I get the tank back in.
 

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When all is said and done...no luck. I cleaned the ground in the trunk and one in front near the air filter. I put new plugs in and verified there was spark when the starter ran. New fuel filter in place and is not leaking, that I can tell. Still, it sounds like the starter is just running - with the bendix not engaged but the car does try to move if I turn it over while in gear.
I heard a clicking noise- a relay maybe - which seemed to come from somewhere under the valve cover - each time the key was turned. Sometimes it would turn over, other times it just clicked.

I see a fitting with a black cap in front of the fuel rail. It has what looks like a tire pressure valve sticking out there and I am betting that is the Schrader valve. Soon as my ride gets home I will head up to Autozone for loaner fuel line tester.
Could something dramatic have happened with the injection system and maybe it is not pumping any fuel in?
Sounds like your timing chain went- the starter is spinning freely because there is no compression being built due to valve timing being out and probably at this point- bent valves if timing jumped enough to cause no start. The starter is obviously engaging correctly if car is trying to walk. Pull cam cover to confirm. Good luck.
 

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OK, turned the key on and got about a cup of fuel the first time. Nothing on subsequent turns so I guess I can confirm the pump is bad. I assume I can skip checking the fuse since it would not run at all if that was bad? Got the tank out - it got a little hung up on the heat shielding on the front side (I think) but I managed to wiggle it out. May be interesting getting it back in.
I found that the jack point I was using was right in the way of sliding the tank out so I had to re-position the jack a little. I am only jacking it on one corner so I hope I can figure out how to get the heat shield on the tank to slide into/under/next to the piece on the frame. Not much room for me to get that far up under there. Sure wish I had a hoist! Guess I might try jacking more from the side instead of back by the wheel.
The pump only gets primed for about two seconds with initial key on, then key has to be off for at least ten seconds before key on will prime again- it's a safety design- unless pcm sees rpm(engine cranking or running) fuel pump is disabled. I fear you did not conduct fuel pressure test adequately. Either use a scanner to command pump on or jump relay to keep pump running. You need a minimum volume of a pint per 15 seconds. If you indeed get a cup (8oz) in the two second prime, your pump is good. Usually when a pump goes, it's after a shutdown where the bearings worn and pump is slightly jammed or it stopped where maybe a bad commutator bar is and there is no continuity to get pump moving - that's where banging on tank while somebody's cranking gets pump going again, until next time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 · (Edited)
Sounds like your timing chain went- the starter is spinning freely because there is no compression being built due to valve timing being out and probably at this point- bent valves if timing jumped enough to cause no start. The starter is obviously engaging correctly if car is trying to walk. Pull cam cover to confirm. Good luck.
I popped the cover off and the timing chain looks OK - it is still firmly attached anyway. I cannot see the timing marks where it is sitting - is there a way to turn the engine manually in order to see if they are lined up correctly? Without opening it up further? I have the battery out to charge and there is no gas tank right now anyway but I wonder if turning it over using the key might end up sucking air or worse through the open lines in the back.

I would hope it would not skip so far as to not run at all and have the timing chain still seem securely attached. Especially since it worked fine when my daughter parked it but didn't a few hours later.

The other bad news - I discovered that one of the rockers is busted. The one over the valve in the front right (looking forward from the driver's seat) broke off and the end was just sitting there next to the valve. I have a picture of it - on the end of a magnetic stick. Don't suppose I can buy just one rocker and replace it? :unsure: I guess I would have to take the cams off - carefully!! - to get to any of the rockers. And once those are off might as well do all of the rockers I suppose. I need to do some googling - I am about ready to just give the car away instead of putting hundreds more $$$ into it. Or more sweat.

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My question is could this be a symptom or the cause of my no-start issue? I assume one missing valve might cause it to run rough but not to just stop. Or if somehow the timing is off did the piston come up and smash the rocker. None of the others are broken - shouldn't more than one should be broken if that was the case?

Doing compression checks tomorrow on all four cyls. That should provide some insight. Should not have skipped that step in the beginning...I suspect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
OK, end of the line for this Redline. Looks like @pjpkwy was right on. I went out and rented a compression tester but took a closer look first. Six rockers were broken and all of them(that weren't currently pressing a valve down) were loose. I was able to wriggle most of them out from under the cam without much problem. Is that normal? I don't see a way they attach except by just sitting under the cams.

Just to make the point I did hook up the compression tester and turned it over. After one or two winds I heard a big 'chunk!'. Guess that was another piston hitting a valve. And....the cam gears are off. The INT cam is pointing to 9 O'Clock and the EXH is point to Noon. Guess that all seals the deal. I have no inclination to take the head off so off to Criag's List or OfferUp it goes. Hopefully I get a better offer there than webuyjunkcars.com. Most of those only offered me $190 and one even offered $55!
Thanks for the assistance along the way. I appreciate the help.
 

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Man what a shame. Could try parting it out first.
Make some cash before letting the shell go for scrap.
 

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post a pic of the car and sell the parts - some parts will be highly desirable here
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
OK, worth a try, I guess. I saw a used supercharger on EBAY for $600. I have a cash offer of $400 so maybe I can do better but I don't want to hang onto it for too long. I am not too sure how to get rid of the rest of the car once it is somewhat 'stripped'?
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I put some rough numbers into one of the 'webuyjunkcars' web sites and they might pay $70 to pick it up, depending on how much I get rid of. I don't want to get stuck with a carcass though....
That being said - anyone want some?
Should this be posted on a different thread?
 

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400 is an awesome offer on the blower. Last time I was on Facebook they were going for like 150-200ish.
If you go into the classified section you can post out a part out thread.

Also. Most of the Junk yards Around me will pick them up. Just need a title.
 

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Come to think of it. I may be interested in the throttle body. Depends on price. And may be a week or two before I have some free funds.
 

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not a bad idea though to get the advanced system running again.

I would guess that one needs to rewire the system and new speakers, amp etc

When new these systems were rockin
 
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