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And another post to "update" some bad info on this thread...

1. - as stated above, the Cobalt FE5 axles DO bolt right up, no camber or other issues.

2. - the page I was referring to above is now a stcky in the suspension area. It specifies grinding the "inner" layer of metal out to match the "outer" layer, and you can get close to -3* that way LEGALLY in SCCA Stock class.

3. - Wheel hop has been rectified with the O T T P rotated trans mounts. If you're using anything else to cure the problem, it's not cured, LOL.

4. - That same vendor offers the steering rack spacers to reduce flex in the rack/tie rods when lowered. Other vendors may as well that I'm uaware of, but it's a basic piece and easy to make.

5. - The competition steering knuckles have gone up in price to over $300 each. ouch. Cobalt SS/turbo knuckles aren't as beefy as these pieces, but are beefier than ours - but we can't use them until omeone figures out the whole ABS sensor/axle issue. :-(
 

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BigBrother GOOD post! If you buy pontiac grand am wheel bearings from SKF 930548K
(they come 10 hole, 5 x 114.3 and 5 x 110, clearance the 5 x 110 holes for studs and change over) you can use LNF axles, LNF knuckles or competition knuckles, and the tooth count is correct for the Redline ABS, here is my set up works dandy....only difference I dont use the LNF axle I use a custom shaft with LNF outer bells....we do this conversion occasionally built about 20 cars this way. The rear before anyone jumps off the cliff, is not as easy, and no one is asking me to make it happen (except one guy) and I may do it if I can figure out how to make it difficult to copy (lol)

 

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^the cobalt a arms bolt right in to our suspension, thank djt for that.

As far as 90° suspension angles and such, the strut works best at 90°. So you want to keep the strut at 90° whenever possible. When you go changing geometry to 70° your strut will bind more often and result in a harder spring rate...making it hard to turn.

These knuckles are for serious racing, mainly because GMPP found on their Grand Am vehicles, that the stock knuckles would buckle under hard cornering. Thats why they replaced the knuckles on the Cup car to Grand Am knuckles.
(according to the Solo2 guy i bought the rims from) if you want to keep even tire wear when adding camber, you add more caster and a little tow out. (According to SCCA rules) We can actually drill out our strut mount all the way to the crease on the tower, which allows us to add -2° of camber to our car.
Not exactly. We changed to G6 knuckles and grand wheel bearings as 1 a precaution and 2. for 114.3 pcd. The ONLY on track failure was at the Milford Proving grounds on the road course test track. The other failures I have seen were all crash related...

Also the GM service manual details ovalising the lower strut hole for camber changes so this is permissable under SCCA rules....I have personally never found that front toe out helps anything....
 

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Oh sorry i misread it was an old post then? good for you, on top of it....deleted my email just so you know....use it if you need it
 

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What about when using the FE5 control arms on the stock axles, any camber problems there that need to be messed with?
No camber problems at all , its good. The FE5 control arms change the wheel base of the car slightly. thats okay. For performance, you either need to push the top of the strut to the back of the car, or move the bottom of the strut forward. The FE5 arms help that, and is why they need to be replaced in pairs...castor gain....
 

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That AND they're stiffer AND 2.2 lbs each lighter (reduced unsprung mass FTW).
 

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hey guys, the last time i got tires from Discount tires, they didnt have my choice in the stock size, so they gave me a wider set for the same price.
I then took it to get it alligned (brake check), told them to adjust as necessary for the tire size (and it needed it anyway). They told me the camber is factory set and cannot be adjusted, i think that is a crock of crap.
Im now im desperately looking for the following:
for NOT competative driving, if you want nice/even tire wear, there is got to be different camber specs depending on the tire width. Do these specs exist ? know where to find them ?
i fear im only gonna get a year outta these tires.
 
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