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So after a night and half today under the hood of my car I finally found the PERFECT way to bleed our clutch. Standard way that is commonly known way to do it is to put a hose on the bleeder valve and put the other end submerged in a container of brake fluid, pump the pedal a few times, turn the knob, close the knob, let the pedal go, all that jazz. This is pretty much the same, but slightly modified.

Go get a one-man bleeder kit from your local auto store. Put one end of the hose on your bleeder valve (Make sure the valve is only finger tight, but the hose is on good and tight) and the other end on the top of the bottle. Make sure the brake/clutch fluid resovoir is full the whole time you do this, if it goes down a little at all fill it back up to the brim. There is a slight hole just below full that I believe is the baffle that directs fluid into the clutch line. Fill a part of the bottle with fluid just enough to get the hose inside of it under the fluid level then close the bottle and put it above the bleeder valve somewhere so the air bubbles have an easy upward path. Now go pump the pedal a few times and release it. Go under the hood and loosen the valve a little until the fluid starts to flow, you will see lots of bubbles the first time. Let it flow until all the big bubbles really stop coming or the bottle gets full. Then close the valve. Make sure the car's resovoir doesn't get empty. Dump some of the fluid out of the bottle and close it back up, be sure to keep the hose under the fluid level. Pump the pedal a few more times and release it. Go back under the hood and turn the valve until all the little bubbles stop coming, then close it again. If the bottle is full, dump it. Watch the car's resovoir. Pump the pedal a few more times and release it. Go under the hood, loosen the bleeder, let it flow until it's just plain liquid going through, no bubbles, then close it. Make sure the resovoir is good and full then put the cap back on. Pull the bleeder kit out and start the car, pump the pedal a few times, should be decently stiff but not loose. It will engage like 2" from rest now and there will be no need to come anywhere near the floor to disengage the pressure plate.
 

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Another method to try without getting messy: Tap the pedal very lightly with the cap off of the reservoir. You will need to do this for several minutes. This way has been the most sucsessful way for me. I have bled alot of GM clutches with this method. Hope this helps.
 

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a power bleeder is the way to go (not a vacuum pump).... not many shops offer the service, you can order a power bleeder kit, or make one like I ended up doing... the clutch pedal must be in the upright position when the bleeder valve is closed, ( and there can't be any air in the system ) it only makes sense to have a positive pressure bleeder from the bleeder valve...
 

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These cars can br blead using a vac pump in as little as 30 minutes. Most of that 30 minutes is spent waiting. The Gm method works. Plain and simple.
 

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sometimes you just get air in a stubborn spot, I spent alot of time getting frustrated with the GM method. if it worked the way it was supposed to, people wouldn't be searching for alternative methods of bleeding their clutch. in my opinion reverse bleeding is superior because all of the air is being forced up to the resivor ( keeping a solid stream of hydro fluid flowing into the bleeder valve), with the clutch pedal in the upright position during the procedure, lessening the chance of air being between the slave and master. I was skeptical too, but it worked the first time....
 

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I am in big trouble. Hopefully you guys can help me. I recently did a clutch swap on my car everything went fine however when I went to bleed the clutch the elbow that attaches on the spout on the transmission was leaking. After looking further I determined that I am missing that little plastic sealer cap that goes on top of the spout on the transmission. This spout runs down to the slave cylinder. Could you please assist me with a GM part number? Any help you can give would be much appreciated.
 

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Clutch Bleeding

a power bleeder is the way to go (not a vacuum pump).... not many shops offer the service, you can order a power bleeder kit, or make one like I ended up doing... the clutch pedal must be in the upright position when the bleeder valve is closed, ( and there can't be any air in the system ) it only makes sense to have a positive pressure bleeder from the bleeder valve...
How does one make a power bleeder?
 

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F_ck Bates
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Tue best way I have found to bleed this clutch is to push the fluid up from the distribution block. Put a tube that fits tight on the bleeder valve nipple. Put the other end of the line on something that can push the fluid in. I used a big syringe type of thing but no needle at the end if it. It's used to to flush my dogs cut when he hurt his leg. Once u figure something out to do this u can crack the bleeder with the clutch down. Push fluid in with plunger or what ever u made. Close bleeder. Pump pedal. Should be good to go. If not refill ur contraption and repeat. U will feel the difference on the first try for sure. Just might need a second time to make sure. Hope this makes sense and helps. The tube I used to hook up to the bleeder was from a mityvac Vacuum bleeder kit for brakes and xlurches. No other way has ever worked for me.

F_ck Bates
 

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Clutch Bleed

Thanks Phil,
If I understand it right, we'll find something like a syringe to force the fluid from the bleeder down by the transaxle back through the clutch master while someone is holding the Clutch pedal down?
Thank you again,
M
 

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F_ck Bates
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U are understanding correctly. Good luck.

F_ck Bates
 

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The impossible Redline Bleed

This thing has a constant flow of fluid from the Clutch piston down to the connection to the transaxle. Looking through the hole on the Bell housing the through out is moving but just barely touching the clutch springs. Does air get trapped in the fluid tube between the bleeder and the through out bearing The rubber grommet is on the bellhouse bulkhead connector some I'm a little perplexed?
Any thoughts?
Thank you
 

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F_ck Bates
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Air get trapped in the in the throw out bearing itself. Usually I bench bleed the tob itself before instalation. But I'm guess it's to late for u to do that LOL.

F_ck Bates
 

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The Impossible Bleed

Correct! We were able to get the air out of the release bearing through the snap cap on the tranny. Car is back on the road and running well.
Thank you for all your insight!
M:rocker:
 

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F_ck Bates
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Glad we could help ya out. Happy to see it's fixed.

F_ck Bates
 

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I tried all that bleeding but still had trouble until I found that there was play in the peddle before it actually began to push on the clutch push rod. There is a plastic bushing in the pocket of the peddle are and mine had all be disintegrated. The Fix: Un-clip the clutch hose at the transmission. Push the clutch peddle down to get the push rod out of the way. Remove what's left of the bushing. I replaced mine with a hard rubber faucet washer that you get in an assortment kit at the hardware store. I found the one with the right diameter and stuffed it in. Position the push rod in the pocket and re-clip the clutch hose. I did not even need to bleed the line. All fixed in 10 minutes and the clutch feel is so much easier and the damn thing works like it is supposed to.
 

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Saw a bounce and I'd just like to thank everyone for helping. Turned out leaving the cap off and tapping was the best way to get it bled. Took some time though.
M
 

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I tried all that bleeding but still had trouble until I found that there was play in the peddle before it actually began to push on the clutch push rod. There is a plastic bushing in the pocket of the peddle are and mine had all be disintegrated. The Fix: Un-clip the clutch hose at the transmission. Push the clutch peddle down to get the push rod out of the way. Remove what's left of the bushing. I replaced mine with a hard rubber faucet washer that you get in an assortment kit at the hardware store. I found the one with the right diameter and stuffed it in. Position the push rod in the pocket and re-clip the clutch hose. I did not even need to bleed the line. All fixed in 10 minutes and the clutch feel is so much easier and the damn thing works like it is supposed to.
if that fails, here's the actual bushing. Part #22697429
BUSHING,CLU M/CYL PUSH ROD 22697429
 

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The bleeder that is on the line out of the transmission doesnt have a rypical bleeder... it is an integral piece of plastic, like part of the line with a rubber cover on it to seal it... how to I bleed that?
 

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That rubber nipple pops off and yes it is a typical bleed port
 
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