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The bleeder that is on the line out of the transmission doesnt have a rypical bleeder... it is an integral piece of plastic, like part of the line with a rubber cover on it to seal it... how to I bleed that?
that sounds like the standard ion you're trying to bleed. they're different than the RL's bro.
 

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I have personally had 0 experience with them. Saturnfans.com would probably 've able to steer you straight
 

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Wow I must be one of them there master mechanics! Lol thats exactally what I did to bleed it, only the car wasnt running for me. Worked like a charm. Had it bled in less than 10 minutes. The vac pump I used had a reservoir on it. Filled it aboit 4 times until the fluid was clean and had no air. Thanks guys!
 

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put one end of the hose on the bleeder for the distribution block. other end on the bleeder for front driver brake. Open both bleeders and pump the brake pedal
 

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Excuse my ignorance, but am I experiencing a clutch that needs to be bled?

2004 Redline. When in gear, RPM climbs consistently and clutch seems firmly engaged. However, when shifting under high throttle the RPMs seem to "switch pitch" audibly. Almost like a delay prior to fully gripping. My initial thought was an aging clutch and or pressure plate, but like I said once I am in gear it seems very strong.

I am the second owner. Prior owner provided all service history. Appears the clutch is original equipment. I do have a receipt from a slave cylinder being replaced 3 times by a Firestone repair shop. So perhaps this issue was also noticed by them.
 

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My 2006 RL did that same thing ULUZ. I have 99k miles and it slipped like a mofo in every gear before it caught and took off. But eventually i was on the interstate in 4th gear, pressed the clutch in to go into 5th and it wouldnt budge. Pumped clutch and kinda tried to pop it into neutral and broke that cheap.ass plastic clip that holds the linkage to the shifter so it just flopped back and back freely. Had to get it towed. Replaced that crap plastic clip with a galvanized steel one, and bought a completely metal linkage bracket to replace the oem that consists of rubber and catches after a while. Im about to swap out the rubber bushings with solid aluminum bushings and im swapling the master cylinder as we speak. I have an entire self adjusting clutch kit with slave cyl and throw out bearing, a lightened fidanza aluminum racing flywheel (8.2lbs instead of 18+lbs stock) and 2 bottles of redline transmission fluid ready to go if this doesnt fix it itll be like a rebuilt trans minus the shift cables which ill probably do when i get the short shifter kit. When thats good to go and broke in ZZPERFORMANCE STAGE 3 kit here i come.
 

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It only goes one way.

Reference the Build Book for the correct positions for both clips.

I recommend having the entire system connected, then vacuum bleeding from the master cylinder.

It takes a few repetitions, but it works.
 
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