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Discussion Starter #1
Well everybody, this is my first How-To article. I know that plenty of you are aggravated, as i also was, with the idle surging issue that begins around 13k miles. Some kind fellows on here mentioned cleaning the throttle body, and briefly described the process. I took some "low quality" photos of what to do:





Materials:
1. 7mm Driver or Socket
2. Slotted Screwdiver
3. 10mm Socket
4. Throttle Body Cleaner
5. Lint-free Towels
6. Plenty of Ventilation

Procedure:
1. Remove the air intake hose that runs from the air box to the throttle body.
a. Loosen hose clamps (7mm hex head for throttle body end, 7mm hex head or slotted screw driver for air box end).
*The hose clamp at the air box end is slightly difficult to reach. I recommend a short slotted screw driver, as the hex driver of 8" that I used was nearly too long.
b. Remove air hose from throttle body, disconnect EGR hose, and lift air hose from air box.


2. The throttle body is connected to the supercharger by four (4) 10mm bolts. Remove the bolts, and throttle body will separate from supercharger. There is still a plug and a hose connected to the throttle body. Unplug the electrical connection and remove hose from throttle body. Remove orange gasket that is inset into the supercharger.
*Note the build up along the inner wall of the throttle body as well as the inlet to the supercharger.


3. Using throttle body cleaner and a lint-free towel, spray inside of throttle body with cleaner. Open butterfly valve and continue to spray. Wipe away carbon build up with towel. Repeat until thoroughly cleaned.
*While you have it out, you may as well clean the outside of it too and make it look as new outside as it will inside.



4. Spray a lint-free towel with throttle body cleaner (DO NOT spray throttle body cleaner into supercharger!!) and wipe away build up from supercharger inlet. Repeat until thoroughly cleaned.


5. Replace gasket to inset on supercharger inlet.


6. Reattach throttle body to supercharger positioned as shown:
Relpace four (4) 10mm bolts
*DO NOT overtighten these bolts!
Reattach electrical plug and ventilation hose.

7. Set air hose onto air box and tighten clamp using 7mm hex head or slotted screwdriver. Reattach air hose to throttle body and tighten clamp with 7mm hex head. Attach EGR hose to air hose.


Now the job is complete. Start car and run air conditioner. Rev engine to 1500-2000 rpms, and notice the lack of idle surges. I hope this write-up is good enough for everybody here.
 

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Nice job!

Doing it tonight. Got the hood open right now in the garage let her cool down from the ride home. Hope this helps the idle problems.

Thanks!
 

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Done and Done!

No more idling problems tonight.

With all the other wizes with thousands of post you would of though this might have came up earlier? Excuse me if it has.

Anyway, great results for me !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
sheek360 said:
very nice write up bro! that shit was nasty dude, u running a catchcan yet?
Thanks for the compliments.
No, I'm not running a catch can. This is going to be dumb, and I know I can probably find it somewhere here, but what exactly does a catch can do?
 

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RL_Clark said:
Thanks for the compliments.
No, I'm not running a catch can. This is going to be dumb, and I know I can probably find it somewhere here, but what exactly does a catch can do?
it intercepts that one pcv hose that goes from the crank to air intake tube. u can get a husky air water seperator for about 15 bux. just tap it in and walla, i cant post a pic of it cuz i cant upload pics, long story. every time i change my oil i always find 2-4 ounces of oil up in there.... so thats oil that never got ingested... bwoody makes a sexy catchcan.... i recommend the red one cuz its hawt
 

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i wish i seen this earlier and could have tried the cleaning but my throttle body was getting shorted out and had to get a new one
 

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Discussion Starter #9
And I am officially a dumbass. I got a call today on my car (which has been in the shop since Thursday), and they found where my coolant is going. In cleaning the throttle body, MAKE SURE not to lose the vacuum hose that connects to the throttle body!!!. In the 10 minutes my TB was off the car, the vacuum hose apparently fell below some stuff, and I could not find it anywhere. ANYWHERE!! Anyhow, the only hose that is close by and not connected to anything is the coolant overflow. Make sure not to connect that to the throttle body (I sound really dumb right now, but in my own defense, the hose is the same size as the fitting, and is the perfect length). I was looking for the vacuum hose, and couldn't find it. I didn't think there was anyway that the coolant overflow hose would connect there, but I have seen things more odd than that. Well, it even took the dealership three days to figure it out.
 

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I just did this to my car today.....damn what a difference!!! it's like i gained 20hp...lol. my throttle response is wayyyyyy higher now!!! car runs great!! awesome write up!! thank you!!
 

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step 8.

do not connect your intercooler resuvar overflow to your throtle body..

its not good :)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
HondaHater said:
I just did this to my car today.....damn what a difference!!! it's like i gained 20hp...lol. my throttle response is wayyyyyy higher now!!! car runs great!! awesome write up!! thank you!!
I'm glad that helped you out. Hopefully it will last a little while for you. I'm soon to do mine again along with cleaning the air filter and hopefully staying away from idle surge until next summer.

As for my previous post in this thread: yes, I am retarded as for where I hooked up vacuum hose. However, that's not where the coolant was going, it was a cracked head that caused the loss of coolant.
 

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That's cool...I just got done cleaning and performing the test drive. Guess that woke up a few sleepy ponies, it's a very noticable difference! It definately seems gutsier, and the throttle response is SO much smoother!! It's amazing what a little time and effort can do to fo yo ride! However, I did'nt find it neccesary to completely remove the intake. I just popped it off the throttle body and turned it towards the front. Still, it might have been easier to just take to whole thing out. Anyway, great write-up! Now, I just have to change the damn oil and put on my winter tread and I'll be set for winter! Cool breeze =)
 

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I just cleaned mine and holy crap I wouldn't think it would be that dirty with only 13k on it. But the catch can is in know so hopefully that helps.
 

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I just cleaned mine last night. It was nasty. I took pictures that I will post later when I get home. I had a real problem with the electrical connector on the TB. I got the grey wedge out, ended up breaking it in half. With the wedge out, the connector still would not budge. So I had to put a pail under the TB and clean it with the plug still attatched. I stuck the wedge back in two pieces. I'm not afraid of the connector coming off because I pulled and pulled and it stayed put. Can anybody shed some light on how to remove the connector?
 

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I just cleaned mine last night. It was nasty. I took pictures that I will post later when I get home. I had a real problem with the electrical connector on the TB. I got the grey wedge out, ended up breaking it in half. With the wedge out, the connector still would not budge. So I had to put a pail under the TB and clean it with the plug still attatched. I stuck the wedge back in two pieces. I'm not afraid of the connector coming off because I pulled and pulled and it stayed put. Can anybody shed some light on how to remove the connector?


The connector is tricky as balls. I took the grey piece out and still could not get it out-So I wiggled it back and fourth for about 5 minutes and it slowly, but surely came off. You can clean the throttle body with that connector on it just makes it kinda difficult-Its amazing how much more throttle response you get after cleaning it.
 

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Yes, I hate the connector. I noticed a huge difference in throttle response. It did however create a new problem. Before I cleaned the TB, it would idle kind of rough and hunt between 500 and 1,000 rpm. It idles great now, stays just under 1,000. But now when I'm driving, If I put the car in neutral it stays at about 1,300-1,400 and wont come down to normal idle until I'm pretty much stopped. I have no idea what this might be. Anyone?







The connector is tricky as balls. I took the grey piece out and still could not get it out-So I wiggled it back and fourth for about 5 minutes and it slowly, but surely came off. You can clean the throttle body with that connector on it just makes it kinda difficult-Its amazing how much more throttle response you get after cleaning it.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Are all of you guys that have had this problem running premium (>91 octane) fuel?? The service manager at my local stealership is stating that the car does not require premium fuel, nor is it recommended. I can't seem to locate my owner's manual, but it certainly doesn't say anywhere on the car to use premium fuel. They are also saying that my excessive buildup causing a dirty TB, burned out cat, O2 sensor, plugs.....and the list goes on is due to me running 93 octane fuel for the last 43k miles. I may just pull the TB off tomorrow before work and check out the amount of buildup inside of there.

**Edit: I just found my owner's manual and it states specifically: "If your vehicle has the 2.4L L4 engine (VIN Code B) or the 2.0L Supercharged engine (VIN Code P), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher"
 

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Are all of you guys that have had this problem running premium (>91 octane) fuel?? The service manager at my local stealership is stating that the car does not require premium fuel, nor is it recommended. I can't seem to locate my owner's manual, but it certainly doesn't say anywhere on the car to use premium fuel. They are also saying that my excessive buildup causing a dirty TB, burned out cat, O2 sensor, plugs.....and the list goes on is due to me running 93 octane fuel for the last 43k miles. I may just pull the TB off tomorrow before work and check out the amount of buildup inside of there.

**Edit: I just found my owner's manual and it states specifically: "If your vehicle has the 2.4L L4 engine (VIN Code B) or the 2.0L Supercharged engine (VIN Code P), use premium unleaded gasoline with a posted octane rating of 91 or higher"



Hey Clark I've been running 91 octane since I bought it new in '05. I think I may have put 93 or 94 in once. All sources I have checked say that the car requires 91 octane or better due to the low compression (9.5:1) that the car has due to the supercharger setup. The sources also stated that if you put regular 87 octane gas you can get pinging. My dealer told me that the TB was clogging because of the oil from the K&N air filter I put in the factory air box. (k&n p/n e1009) Like mentioned on these forums though, Saturn dealers don't seem to know ****all about the 2.0 LSJ and GM dealers know a bit more due to the fact that Cobalt SS's are much more common
 
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