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Discussion Starter #1
What are a good set of tires for auto-x? I was looking at the Hoosier A6 but at 245$/tire I am not sure if I could afford them unless they would last a hole race seasion (running with SCCA, SCCNH, and BMW) Has anyone used the A6? How do they hold up? What other tires do you recommend?
 

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are you looking for slicks?
 

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most of my friends that ran a6's could amke it through 2 seasons on them, but that would be right around your 30 event limit so they should last you a year.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
most of my friends that ran a6's could amke it through 2 seasons on them, but that would be right around your 30 event limit so they should last you a year.
That sounds good. I race with 3 different groups that do about 12 sessions each and I don't want to be shelling out 2 grand a year on tiers.
 

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I have run Hoosiers for years. They last well IF DRIVEN WELL. Overdrive them - especially in a 3,000 lb FWD wheelspin-happy car like the RL, and they won't last as long as you'd like. That said - depending on teh surfaces you race on, if you're a decent driver, you should be able to squeeze 30 events out of them with pancaking and rotating.

The best size for the RL in stock is 245/40/17. The kumho V710 does not come in that size. Any tiny benifit that tire MIGHT have over the A6 is lost when you factor in taller tires to get the width or narrower tires to get teh gearing right and no rubbing. Scratch Kumho.

The new BFG R1 - well, I just bought a set. By all accounts, they wear slightly better (last longer) than the A6 with very nearly the same grip. But the big plus for me is temp - the BFG's don't overheat nearly as fast, and don't get "greasy" when hot. They may take an extra run to get warm, but with the surface temps we get here, I don't see that being an issue, lol. The Hoosiers getting too hot certainly WAS an issue though!

The Hankook Z214's get okay reviews, but my experience with them is very limited.

Other "crossover" R-comps - with higher treadwear ratings of 60 to 100 - and a less "slick" tread pattern would be T1's, A048's, Victoracers, Pilot Cups, and the like. Most of those will last a good bit longer than the R1's or A6's but won't offer quite the same max grip.

As for cost... Well, buying new R-comps ain't gonna be cheap regardless, lol. By BFG's were $10 or $15 less each than the Hoosiers, but at that point what's $50 matter, LOL!
 

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Stock class so no lowering, 245/40/17 R1's on 17x7 Motegi SP5's.
 

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I have run Hoosiers for years. They last well IF DRIVEN WELL. Overdrive them - especially in a 3,000 lb FWD wheelspin-happy car like the RL, and they won't last as long as you'd like. That said - depending on teh surfaces you race on, if you're a decent driver, you should be able to squeeze 30 events out of them with pancaking and rotating.

The best size for the RL in stock is 245/40/17. The kumho V710 does not come in that size. Any tiny benifit that tire MIGHT have over the A6 is lost when you factor in taller tires to get the width or narrower tires to get teh gearing right and no rubbing. Scratch Kumho.

The new BFG R1 - well, I just bought a set. By all accounts, they wear slightly better (last longer) than the A6 with very nearly the same grip. But the big plus for me is temp - the BFG's don't overheat nearly as fast, and don't get "greasy" when hot. They may take an extra run to get warm, but with the surface temps we get here, I don't see that being an issue, lol. The Hoosiers getting too hot certainly WAS an issue though!

The Hankook Z214's get okay reviews, but my experience with them is very limited.

Other "crossover" R-comps - with higher treadwear ratings of 60 to 100 - and a less "slick" tread pattern would be T1's, A048's, Victoracers, Pilot Cups, and the like. Most of those will last a good bit longer than the R1's or A6's but won't offer quite the same max grip.

As for cost... Well, buying new R-comps ain't gonna be cheap regardless, lol. By BFG's were $10 or $15 less each than the Hoosiers, but at that point what's $50 matter, LOL!
Great Advice! Thank you.
 

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You're in NH - temperature isn't as important as it is for me in 100+ degree AT NIGHT (we don't run in the daytime in July and August) temps. We see surface temps higher than most cars see TIRE temps after running, lol. Also factor in your surfaces - Nellis AFB and Wendover (more a Utah region site, but I get up there a lot and it's hot there too) have EXTREMELY grippy, tire-eating surfaces.

If most of your events are on asphalt and summer temps aren't 100+, the A6's may very well be the better choice.

Regarding lowering... If you're lowered AND on R-comps, you're in a Street Modified class, which is a heavy class. GM stage kits, smaller pulley, and many other mods will also put you in these classes.

Stock class let's you run R-Comps, but with VERY few mods allowed. basically you can do cat back, drop-in filter, shocks (not springs or coilovers, JUST shocks), and brake PADS only. Wheels must be stock size and diameter, and within 6mm (actually 1/4 inch, but that's not how it's measured, lol) of stock offset.

Look into STX. You can do CAI, headers (some restrictions) and exhaust, coilovers and rear swaybar, strut tires, wheels are almost completely open, brakes are more or less open, and a reflash (think HPT with the stock injectors). Can't increase boost or run a smaller pulley. Also - no R's, tires must be UTQG 140 or higher. ore mods allowed, cheaper, longer-lasting rubber... A good place to go if you want to mod your car but want to take Solo II seriously. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You're in NH - temperature isn't as important as it is for me in 100+ degree AT NIGHT (we don't run in the daytime in July and August) temps. We see surface temps higher than most cars see TIRE temps after running, lol. Also factor in your surfaces - Nellis AFB and Wendover (more a Utah region site, but I get up there a lot and it's hot there too) have EXTREMELY grippy, tire-eating surfaces.

If most of your events are on asphalt and summer temps aren't 100+, the A6's may very well be the better choice.

Regarding lowering... If you're lowered AND on R-comps, you're in a Street Modified class, which is a heavy class. GM stage kits, smaller pulley, and many other mods will also put you in these classes.

Stock class let's you run R-Comps, but with VERY few mods allowed. basically you can do cat back, drop-in filter, shocks (not springs or coilovers, JUST shocks), and brake PADS only. Wheels must be stock size and diameter, and within 6mm (actually 1/4 inch, but that's not how it's measured, lol) of stock offset.

Look into STX. You can do CAI, headers (some restrictions) and exhaust, coilovers and rear swaybar, strut tires, wheels are almost completely open, brakes are more or less open, and a reflash (think HPT with the stock injectors). Can't increase boost or run a smaller pulley. Also - no R's, tires must be UTQG 140 or higher. ore mods allowed, cheaper, longer-lasting rubber... A good place to go if you want to mod your car but want to take Solo II seriously. ;)
The mods I have done to the car run me in SM. When I race it is in parking lots and an old airstrip and temps are not to high (mid 80s low 90s max). If this will cause griping problems on the BFGR1 then I would rather go with something else.
 

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The R1 will be fine, just may take longer to heat up - in Vegas, they should heat up fast 'cuz the Hoosiers OVERHEAT, lol. You'll get more life from the R1's based on all my research - just plan on the first run or 2 being a little less grippy until they get some heat in 'em.
 
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