Saturn ION RedLine Forums banner

1 - 20 of 48 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I am having a vibration, which I can feel in the steering wheel, but appears to be coming from the engine or transmission. It occurs between 2000 and 3000 RPM. If I go above that RPM range, it stops. It happens in 2nd through 5th, but never seemingly in first. It is worse if I am in a higher gear and just trying to maintain speed rather than accelerating, or if I am decelerating in gear. If I push in the clutch, it goes away. If it were only speed related I would thing CV's or halfshafts, or something at the wheels, but it is definitely RPM related. I can't check my codes because my ODBII port doesn't work properly, it has some kind of short or something, it will register momentarily, but then goes away. I'm thinking possibly injectors, or maybe something in the engine control system. Has anyone else ever experienced this? Any insights?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Mods? Mileage?

Specifically, do you have stock mounts?

Fix the blown lighter fuse and your OBDII port will work.

What makes you suspect injectors? Are they stock? If the injectors were acting up, the car would have noticeable driveability issues.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
No mods to speak of, just an aftermarket intercooler radiator. 170000 miles. Just pulled the plugs, and they read fine, but old. Replaced them, no change. I was thinking maybe injectors because it seems like it could be a partial misfire.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
124 Posts
I would think it it was misfiring you would have a SES light on. It could be a grounded motor or trans mount but I think that would be more noticeable at idle. Could be related to the clutch or related parts as you said it goes away when you push the clutch in. Does it do it in neutral if you just rev the engine to the rpm it happens?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
758 Posts
Check your control arm bushings, sway bar bushings, end links, your engine mounts and trans mount.. could be an off balance tire.. one time I had a clump of ice stuck inside my rim and it would vibrate my car at certain speeds. Check km and make sure your lug nuts are tight. From what your describing it seems related to only when your moving at 30mph and above.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Our flywheels are not dual mass.

Does it do it mainly at lower speed driving? What condition are the roads? Is it more of a "flutter" type vibration? Does it make a chattering noise when it does it?

Could be the intermediate steering shaft. Known issue with these cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
It’s not directly speed related. If I am at 40 mph and 2200 rpm, it does it, if I am at 40 mph and 3000 rpm it stops. That’s why it don’t think it’s at the wheels. I can’t feel it in the floorboard, but I can feel it in the steering wheel. It does not vary in turns. I will take a look at all of the bushings. I looked over the motor mounts already, and they seem fine.

Update; last night I put in new plugs, but the only ones I had in my garage were some racing plugs. When I took it for a quick test drive it seemed to be a little better, but driving it this morning it was much worse, and now it happens lower in the RPM range, and is harder to get out of. Next stop is the auto parts store for some OEM plugs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
758 Posts
Ok... I'm just throwing ideas out here but maybe it's your timing chain tensioner... but you really need to be able to pull DTCodes from your OBD2 port.. I had my areoforce scanner hooked up and i could see the engine misfiring when my tensioner started going out but mine was only happening at idle ... i would hate to see you start throwing parts and money at it with out finding out what's really wrong
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Well, I figured out that my OBDII issue might actually be my dongle because it’s not working for my wife’s Fiat either, so I’m going to run over to O’Reilly tomorrow and see if they can read it. Putting in new correct plugs returned it to its original behavior.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
THe NGK platinums with .04
I'd suggest switching to the 4644 coppers and a gap of 0.034. The platinum and iridium plugs can have a problem with detonation or misfiring under boost. Not something you want on a supercharged car.

Coppers wear out quicker, just change them more often. 10-15 minute job on these cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Plugs are cheap, so I will probably take your advice on that, but the vibrations never happen under boost. Also, the bad news is that O’reilly Can’t read my ODBII port either. I fon’ Have a blown fuse to it, since my charger ports both work, and my dongle lights up and has a WiFi signal. Something else is not working with it. I’m going to assume that the timing belt tensioner is not going to be easy to get to, but how do I check it? Is it possible that I need to reflash my ECU? I’m an engineer, so I know that it’s almost never the program that goes wrong, but it seems like i’m Getting reduced efficiency in a range.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Tensioner is on the back of the head. Big hex shaped deal. Look at pictures of the part on the web and you'll get a better feel for what you're looking for.

I'd suggest just replacing it if you choose to pull it. You have to be careful not to have the chain jump a tooth in the process.

The safest route would be to pull the cam cover and zip-tie the chain to the cam sprockets. Some call that overkill, and I changed my tensioner without doing so, but keep in mind that if you screw up, it's a lot of work to re-time the motor *at best*, and damaged pistons at worst.

In any case, after replacing the tensioner, turn the motor over gently by hand before cranking, just to make sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Should I go ahead and replace the chain while I’m in there? I don’t know if that has already been done on this car, and it’s at 170000 miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Should I go ahead and replace the chain while I’m in there? I don’t know if that has already been done on this car, and it’s at 170000 miles.
Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to just replace the set. It's a bit involved, but not overly hard if you have basic mechanic skills and can follow directions.

The tensioner is separate though. You don't have to pull the front cover, cam cover, or even look at the chain to replace it. It literally screws into the back side of the head.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
Okay, now I have a problem; replaced the tensioner, new one looks a little different, but basically the same. The chain seems awfully loose to me, though. I got nd a video that said you’re supposed to activate the tensioner by whacking the tensioner arm with a hammer and something to transmit the force, but the chain is still sloppy on the front side. I would post the video I took, but I can’t figure out how.
 
1 - 20 of 48 Posts
Top