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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok people how many of your are actully understanding the idea of water injection? First is has nothing to do with spraying the intercooler down, or the supercharger. Second if done properly there are a few things you can do with a good kit. 1. a good setup will allow you to run 87 octane with 0 knock or retard of the timing which will save you money. 2. A properly tuned kit will allow you to run harder with high octane without the computer to gain more power from timing and actually acting like a cheap nitrous system.

The way it works is that water has a threshold of almost 800% which means that it can absorb heat 8x faster than it will heat up. For example a quart or cold water can make 4 gallons of air the temp of the water before the waters temp will rise 1 degree. Seem complicated but it works. The advantage to say alcohol is it can absorb 1200% before it will change.

Test to show it in action. Take any type of alcohol anything alcohol based like finger nail polish. The bottle will be room temp. Now pour a small amount in your hand in will fell cold. It fells cold becuase its evaportaing super fast because of its high heat threshold. As is evaporates it removes the heat for energy to keep the chemical reaction in motion.

What all is involved in a setup.

1. a tank to hold the liquid. This can be a water or water/alcohol or water/methanol mix.
2. Pump to pull from tank to the intake manifold or intake path.
3. tubing of course.
4. controler. there can be just a simple WOT switch or a better map sensor based controler triggered by boost.
5. nozzle this is needed to get a desired spray/mist to make the water atomize and absorb as much heat as possible before it evaporates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Navymitch

Ok first pic should be the one on the supercharger that one is to check and calibrate for intake vacuum. Its mostly negative never positive at that one. The second pic should be the one under and behind the throttle body. That one is for Outside ambient pressure. As you drive to a higher elevation you have less barometric pressure. Then the last is the 4 wire unit behind the supercharger on the #1 cylinder behind the snout for the supercharger. This is the only one that will see boost. As well this is the source for your unit.
 

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so i am gonna tap into the green wire on the sensor in the 3rd pic, is that what u are saying goofy?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am not 100% on which wire to tap. It should be labeled + - signal and so forth. The signal wire is what you are looking for.
 

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ok well if it is 4 wire than what one is the signal wire. there was something about thing in the alcky thread b4 it vanished.

i got kit today should have it on this weekend at the latest
 

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dvldoc said:
Green is a 5v signal on GM cars.
Actually the GREY wire is the 5V reference on almost all GM vehicles since 1980
BUT
The Redline seems to break convention in much of the wiring (hence the confusion on the CAC pump)

The Redline's Temp + Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor (TMAP) is an "all-new" 4 wire sensor that's basically two sensors in one. It besides the traditional pressure transducer it also includes the Intake Air Temp #2 and measures the temperature of the inlet air AFTER it's been compressed by the supercharger.

The TMAP is wired as follows:
REF LO (GND) is wired to pin#1 and is Dark Green with a White tracer
IAT2 is on terminal #2 of the sensor with a Light Blue wire.
5V reference-B is on terminal 3 and is Dark Green
TMAP SIGNAL is terminal 4 on the Grey wire

Good Luck with the mod
Regards
WopOnTour
 
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