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if you want to get rid of some of your wheel hop,then go to advance auto and get a tube of urethane,remove your motor mounts and fill the empty spaces on the mounts with it. it is a little time consuming but if you can stand you car to be down for 24 hrs to let the urethane dry completly then it's worth it.i am doing this next weekend.i had to do it on my old saturn because i was wearing the mounts out to quick due to spraying off the line and this took all my wheel hop out.

just a little do it yourself info to anyone interested.
 

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YAKUSATURN said:
if you want to get rid of some of your wheel hop,then go to advance auto and get a tube of urethane,remove your motor mounts and fill the empty spaces on the mounts with it. it is a little time consuming but if you can stand you car to be down for 24 hrs to let the urethane dry completly then it's worth it.i am doing this next weekend.i had to do it on my old saturn because i was wearing the mounts out to quick due to spraying off the line and this took all my wheel hop out.

just a little do it yourself info to anyone interested.
did you even look at them yet? they're pretty beefy
 

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beefy or not they suck pretty bad. The mod will do the best on the rear transmission mount and the large one on the passenger side. Good secret been using for years on my older cars.
 

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if you plan to drive any vehicle hard, you should get upgraded motor mounts....

if you plan to drag race your car, your a dumbass if you dont have upgraded motor mounts.

you will blow axels and just wreak havok on your drivetrain.

(2c)
 

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well, then, consider me a dumbass, because i have urethane in my motor mounts and leave smooth burn lines. my transmission and axles don't seem to mind too much, either. but then again, it IS a dodge....

tony
 

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well, i won't be doing the urethane deal, i'm going to make a strut bar that mounts to the block to take the stress off of the mounts, and achieve the same effect...

so i'm a dumbass :rolleyes:
 

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Vita said:
well, i won't be doing the urethane deal, i'm going to make a strut bar that mounts to the block to take the stress off of the mounts, and achieve the same effect...

so i'm a dumbass :rolleyes:
Hey, that's my idea dumbass..... :mad: ;)

Oh, I guess that makes me a dumbass also. :rolleyes: :D
 

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MotorMouth said:
Hey, that's my idea dumbass..... :mad: ;)

Oh, I guess that makes me a dumbass also. :rolleyes: :D
i guess we're a couple of regular dumbasses...

with a bar like that, we'll never have to get new motor mounts....

edit: never say never, but not for a long time
 

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let me edit,

you need something that doesnt allow the engine to dive back and forth like a retard on a crashing plane
 

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A strut bar isn't going to help wheel hop - wheel hop is happening because the springs are not very stiff, allowing the wheels to bounce, the tires aren't very sticky, allowing them to spin instead of hook up, and the engine mounts are allowing rotational movement of the engine. Also, the lack of LSD causes traction transfer side to side, which is the primary contributor to wheel hop.
 

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Jim Lewis said:
A strut bar isn't going to help wheel hop - wheel hop is happening because the springs are not very stiff, allowing the wheels to bounce, the tires aren't very sticky, allowing them to spin instead of hook up, and the engine mounts are allowing rotational movement of the engine. Also, the lack of LSD causes traction transfer side to side, which is the primary contributor to wheel hop.
a strut bar with a thrid mount point to the block will, if designed properly...
 

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Perhaps, but only minimally - won't make it completely go away as long as we have wimpy stock springs and struts that don't keep the tires planted...
 

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when you stomp the pedal, the engine rotates. follow this rotation to the back of the tranny. it actually moves, too. all of this changes the angle of the axles, which is no good for them. i forgot that i only used urethane on two of my mounts. for the front mount, all i had handy was liquid nails. worked great for a while, but has evidently broken and made a hasty exit. for the record, i don't have wimpy springs or shocks (shelby model dodge charger), i have decent tires (khumo ecstas), an aftermarket LSD (t-trac installed by cliff ramsdell), and as of last night, i also have WHEEL HOP. keep that motor solid and 95% of the problem goes away. at least i'm estimating, because 95% of my problem is back.
tony
 

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I ran Kumho Ecsta 712s on my previous car and they're on my son's Talon - they have a treadwear rating of 280, close to the Dunlops on our Redlines, and while they're better at traction than a Pep Boys radial, they aren't sticky like tires with a 140-200 TW rating.

I got them because they were cheap, but won't get them again. After only 5,000 miles, they got really noisy and chopped up, and traction worsened. The price is right, but you get what you pay for.
 

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then again, maybe i'm a better driver than i think and i can get sub 2.0 with a real tire? i still think that's a lot to look for in a STREET TIRE. i may get a pair of drag radials just for fun.
tony
 

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macncheese said:
then again, maybe i'm a better driver than i think and i can get sub 2.0 with a real tire? i still think that's a lot to look for in a STREET TIRE. i may get a pair of drag radials just for fun.
tony

I've heard many stories about things breaking on cars cause of the addition of super sticky tires. Is this true? Do you plan on beefing up anything on your car? I'm curious how it'll go for you so keep us posted.
 

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TXRLU said:
I've heard many stories about things breaking on cars cause of the addition of super sticky tires. Is this true? Do you plan on beefing up anything on your car? I'm curious how it'll go for you so keep us posted.
That's where you have to be careful - tire slip isn't a bad thing in one tangent when you consider stress on your clucth, axles, and engine mounts. I've seen guys install slicks and break stuff in a bad way. That's why I recommend tires like the Sumitomo HTR-Z (160 tw) or Yokohama AVS Sport (180 tw). They're sticky enough to stick like glue on the autocross track or drag racing, but they allow enough slip to where your engine power doesn't leave car parts laying on the road.

Bear in mind, with drag radials or slicks, when you let out the clutch, you hook up, and you go. That may sound great if you have beefy axles and drag coil-overs - if you don't, you'll be buying some after a couple of launches, ready or not.
 

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question: how can i add a signature to my post? i feel like i should warn everybody that i'm not driving a redline here.

point: i've seen tire-hopping radials break more axles than slicks ever have. usually, the clutch tends to slip before the axles give up the ghost. now, if you have a hi-po clutch and a hi-po motor, i guess the equation is a little different, but i don't feel that applies to most people here on their redlines. i wouldn't sweat it. as far as i know, there is no aftermarket support for axles in the old-azz fwd dodge world, but plenty enough people are running 12.xx and better (a handful that i know of are in the 10.xx), and we're doing it on stock axles. some guys, like me, are doing something a little wierd that dodge never intended and are forced to use non-turbo grade axles. i've had zero problems on account of this and i've heard of exactly the same from others.
tony
 
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