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Discussion Starter #1
All-
The time has come to replace front control arm bushings (again). I replaced the whole arm with an FE5 arm 50k ago.
I ordered some MOOG OEM bushings for the rear. And found some Whiteline poly bushings for the front bushings. However, the picture shows a standard inner 'axle' for a through bolt. Can't imagine the stock bolt down pivot would fit through this though. Any body tried these? Their Cobalt kit includes a new pivot axle with the bolt down provisions. Doesn't appear available separate though.
KCA382 - Front Lower Control Arm Bushings - Inner Rear Position - Caster Correction - Whiteline Suspension Parts

Also on the Whiteline website (under cobalt again) are rear subframe poly bushings to replace the big rubber chunks. If I'm looking to bring this suspension back to life @ 162k miles, these should fit no problem right? And, they are only 42$.
7320 - Rear Control Arm Bushings - Whiteline Suspension Parts

Search turned up nada for 'whiteline'.

Thanks all.
 

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I cant see these helping or lasting any longer than the moog or oem ones. the way holes are positioned and are supposed to help correct caster is an unproven claim the way i see it. the fe5 control arms already set the your camber at a -1 which is good enough for what most people do with there ions. if you are doing any kind of competive auto-x then i might look into these. getting these installed correctly would take a technician and alignment shop a little bit of time and $$$. it looks like they are made of polyurethane which yeilds and wears faster than OEM ones... look at the install instructions on the website you posted. here is something i found that explains what you be doing a lot better than i can
What Is Wheel Caster?
bottom line i wouldnt install these if i was you
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ha, I had no idea why you were taking about caster. (thinking a cam front bushing would change camber) Then I realized those were intended for rear control arm use, poor example. I agree 100% now. The ones i found elsewhere specified 'front', exact kit below:
Whiteline W53315 - Front Lower Control Arm Bushings - Inner Front Position. Whiteline

On Energy website it doesn't list ION or Cobalt, though the other vendor has IONs and Cobalts listed...great. I'd have to make my own axle to allow these to bolt to the subframe, not impossible.

Still curious on the rear subframe bushings i mentioned above.
Thanks.
 

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Ha, I had no idea why you were taking about caster. (thinking a cam front bushing would change camber) Then I realized those were intended for rear control arm use, poor example. I agree 100% now. The ones i found elsewhere specified 'front', exact kit below:
Whiteline W53315 - Front Lower Control Arm Bushings - Inner Front Position. Whiteline

On Energy website it doesn't list ION or Cobalt, though the other vendor has IONs and Cobalts listed...great. I'd have to make my own axle to allow these to bolt to the subframe, not impossible.

Still curious on the rear subframe bushings i mentioned above.
Thanks.
those look like the same as oem and probably perform like them as well....
just to help you for reference the LCABS (leading control arm bushings) and TCABS (trailing control arm bushings) are all pretty much going to be the same and there are only 2 people that sell upgrade bushings for them.. they are expensive and i would only suggest using them if you are planning on doing any kind of competitive racing.. idk how well you have searched this forum but i will post below a article somebody wrote on here about suspension upgrades... its a long read but with tons of useful info on suspension performance

http://www.redlineforums.com/forums/wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/43704-thoughts-cobalt-redline-front-suspension.html
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ive seen the spherical bearing kits,wouldnt last in Maine, even though i find them very cool.
 

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I have used both companies bushings on other cars. I highly recommend them and motor mounts. The photos are most likely stock images, not actually what you are getting. Poly bushings are a huge improvement over factory rubber in most cases. They will actually last longer if you lube them and wrap them in Teflon plumbers tape... And they aren't defective.

Another cheaper option is to make your own. You can get various hardnesses of poly uncured. Make a simple mold or use the factory sleeve and mount. I have come across some that have even used window weld and duct tape in a pinch
 
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