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Lowering Spring Install -- REARS (With Pictures)

12K views 27 replies 7 participants last post by  snobrdrdan  
#1 · (Edited)
How to install lowering springs


Tools Needed:
- 19mm socket
- 18mm socket
- Ratchet or Breaker Bar
- Jack
- Jack Stands
- Torque Wrench
- Blocks for wheels
- Hacksaw or Razor Blade


NOTE: I used the Progress springs on my install.

Before:
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Rear:

NOTE: The rear of the car needs to be fully in the air with no weight/pre load on the suspension!! (A hoist/lift would come in handy, but this CAN be done in your driveway)

1. Block the front wheels so the car can't roll!!!!

2. Jack up the rear & have on jackstands
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3. Remove the rear wheels using the 19mm socket
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4. Locate the 18mm upper shock bolt
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5. Undo the 18mm upper shock bolt (using a jack under the rear control arm helps to remove it easier)
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6. Remove the jack (if you used it).......Now you should be able to press down (or kick, if needed) to release the spring (it WILL NOT shoot out at you)
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7. Now you can wiggle/pull the stock spring from the bottom mount of the rear control arm & this is what you have
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8. This is what the stock spring looks like. You will have to transfer the top & bottom plastic pieces to your new spring (they snap right in/out).
NOTE: If you need to cut the bump stops per instructions or something (which I DIDN'T, but this is when you would do it). Probably only need to trim the rear bumpstops if you're installing the Sprint springs (trim 1/2" per zfactor).
Image


9. After you've transferred the stock plastic pieces to your new spring, now you can slide it into the lower rear control arm
Image


10. Line the top up spring insert as well, then use a floor jack under the control arm to line up the rear shock to the upper mounting point (gotta jiggle it left or right), & then insert the bolt and tighten it down
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11. Torque down to specs!

12. Repeat for the other side

13. GET AN ALIGNMENT!!!!!!



Enjoy!!!
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Torque Specs: Thanks to WopOnTour

Ball Joint to Control Arm Nut and Bolts 68 N·m 50 lb ft

Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut
First Pass- 50 N·m (37 lb ft)
Reverse Nut- 3/4 turn
Second Pass-50 N·m + 30° (37 lb ft + 30°)

Control Arm to Front Frame Bolts- 66 N·m (49 lb ft)

Control Arm to Rear Frame Bolts- 100 N·m + 180° ( 74 lb ft + 180°)

Frame to Chassis Bolts- 100 N·m + 180° (74 lb ft + 180°)

Intermediate Shaft Pinch Bolt- 34 N·m (25 lb ft)

Stabilizer Link to Strut Nut- 110 N·m (81 lb ft)

Stabilizer Shaft Clamp Bolt- 50 N·m (37 lb ft)

Stabilizer Shaft Link to Stabilizer Bar Nut- 110 N·m (81 lb ft)

Strut Assembly to Steering Knuckle Nut- 120 N·m (89 lb ft)

Strut Cap Screws- 14 N·m (124 lb in)

Strut Cap to Body Nut- 110 N·m (81 lb ft)

Strut Shaft Nuts- 70 N·m (52 lb ft)

Tie Rod to Knuckle Nut- 60 N·m (44 lb ft)

Transmission Mount Through Bolt- 100 N·m (74 lb ft)

Transmission Mount to Frame Bolt- 50 N·m (37 lb ft)

Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly Mounting Bolts- 115 N·m (85 lb ft)
 
#2 ·
So you jack up the back end and put bricks or something under the front? My driveway slopes toward the street, so should I park my car with the front end toward the street or what?
 
#4 ·
ESV0720 said:
So you jack up the back end and put bricks or something under the front? My driveway slopes toward the street, so should I park my car with the front end toward the street or what?
yea if u dont the car will roll forward because the parking bark is on the back wheels, however if you leave it in gear it wont roll forward. But a brick or a piece of wood, would be very helpful so you dont roll :)
 
#6 ·
ESV0720 said:
So you jack up the back end and put bricks or something under the front? My driveway slopes toward the street, so should I park my car with the front end toward the street or what?
Yeah like Matt said, it shouldn't matter which way you park it.....just be sure to block the front wheels to keep it from moving/rolling!!

Ideally, you'd probably wanna do this on level ground to make it easier/safer (like when using the jack & jackstands) for stability
 
#7 ·
nightmistwalker said:
what brand springs were u using during this swap? i wanted eicbach pro kit but was told the b&g set was a better overall set for handling and ride
Progress springs....for $166 SHIPPED the price is right!

They give the perfect drop & ride awesome

(B&G's will be lower & ride hard--per urbanmonkeygod04 & the Eibachs sit lower in the rear but that's your decision)
 
#8 ·
where'd you order from for that price?
 
#9 ·
golden chicken said:
noob question: why would you need to cut the bump stops?
To allow for full travel since you have a shorter spring in there now (hence the car is lower). You don't want the car to be riding on the bump stops or else it'll be a VERY harsh ride & just not a smart thing overall.

For the fronts, it's standard/mandatory that you cut the bump stops so you don't bottom the strut out.

For the rears it's optional & probably not needed.....Zfactor (who wrote the other write up) said that the B&G's didn't need to be cut (which sit lower than my Progress ones), but the Sprints (which are the lowest spring available) do need to be trimmed a little...1/2"
 
#10 ·
#11 ·
I'm thinking about ordering them soon, but I'm worried about ground clearance. Have you had any issues with going up driveways or entrances to parking lots or anything like that?
 
#12 ·
ESV0720 said:
I'm thinking about ordering them soon, but I'm worried about ground clearance. Have you had any issues with going up driveways or entrances to parking lots or anything like that?

No...not at all. The only thing that (barely) scrapes is the wind deflector/black plastic flap under the front bumper (it hangs 3-4" lower?) when I go over speed bumps in my parent's sub division.

Image



Just be careful pulling up to parking blocks or curbs so you don't hit the front bumper on them.....just stop a little short. Sometimes it clears though without a problem.

And if you do come across a big hill or anything, just creep up it slowly. If you drive a little safer you'll be fine....it's common sense
 
#13 ·
alright that sounds good. I just don't want to mess my bumper that I just finished cleaning up >.<
 
#14 ·
Haven't messed mine up

Like I said...it's common sense....just drive a little safer over huge bumps or railroad tracks & parking block/curbs and stuff like that

They're now your enemies!!!
 
#15 ·
is the performance difference significant? Like other than the ride height, will I notice that I did this?
 
#16 ·
yeah.....you'll get a better launch, less wheel hop, & some better handling

Get a front strut bar too....it'll make a world of difference!

no offense, but do a search or post up the question in the performance section because we're clogging up this how to thread & making more pages to print out....lol
 
#17 ·
my bad I'm done lol
 
#19 ·
Nice How-to! The only question I have is could you simply place the jack in the center of the axle and undo both strut bolts at the same time and lower the entire axle down, change springs and reinstall?

Lastly, you shouldn't need an alignment since the back axle is fixed. There are no adjustments for alignment to the rear, iirc.
 
#20 ·
04Redline0124 said:
is it really necessary to use the torque wrencd, and torque it to those specs?? or can u just guess how much to tighten it, by deciding how tight it was when u took them off??...
You can "guess" if you want.....this is all done AT YOUR OWN RISK

But if you overtighten something & it breaks.....well, you're screwed

Just borrow someones if you have to...it's safer
 
#21 ·
Cat Ion said:
Nice How-to! The only question I have is could you simply place the jack in the center of the axle and undo both strut bolts at the same time and lower the entire axle down, change springs and reinstall?

Lastly, you shouldn't need an alignment since the back axle is fixed. There are no adjustments for alignment to the rear, iirc.
Well that sounds easy, but wouldn't work. If you put the jack stands under the center of the axle the weight of the car would be on the axle & you wouldn't be able to move or swing the axle down because of the jack stand & also the weight of the car.

The rear axle (lower arm) is one solid piece & hinges/pivots at two points in front of the rear wheels.

You need to have no preload on the rear suspension. Either have the car on a lift/hoist so that the rear axle can swing down all the way OR have the car on jack stands in front of that pivot point (like I did) so that you can easily swing down the whole rear axle to get the springs in & out

And yes you are correct that a rear alignment isn't necessary, but I was referring to doing an alignment since most people do all 4 springs (not just the rears alone)
 
#22 ·
04Redline0124 said:
is it really necessary to use the torque wrencd, and torque it to those specs?? or can u just guess how much to tighten it, by deciding how tight it was when u took them off??...
Sure, you can "guess", but you are doing it AT YOUR OWN RISK

But if you overtighten something & it breaks....you're screwed. Or if something isn't tight enough & squeaks/moves....that'll annoy you.

It's safer/better to just use a torque wrench....just borrow someones if you have to
 
#23 ·
snobrdrdan said:
Well that sounds easy, but wouldn't work. If you put the jack stands under the center of the axle the weight of the car would be on the axle & you wouldn't be able to move or swing the axle down because of the jack stand & also the weight of the car.

The rear axle (lower arm) is one solid piece & hinges/pivots at two points in front of the rear wheels.

You need to have no preload on the rear suspension. Either have the car on a lift/hoist so that the rear axle can swing down all the way OR have the car on jack stands in front of that pivot point (like I did) so that you can easily swing down the whole rear axle to get the springs in & out

And yes you are correct that a rear alignment isn't necessary, but I was referring to doing an alignment since most people do all 4 springs (not just the rears alone)
That's what I was implying. You already showed the car on jackstands. So put it on jackstands forward of the rear wheels, raise a jack to the axle beam, unbolt both sides and lower the jack to unload the rear springs. Sorry I wasn't more clear. It might save about 15 or 20 mins. of work that way. Either way, good post!
 
#24 ·
Cat Ion said:
That's what I was implying. You already showed the car on jackstands. So put it on jackstands forward of the rear wheels, raise a jack to the axle beam, unbolt both sides and lower the jack to unload the rear springs. Sorry I wasn't more clear. It might save about 15 or 20 mins. of work that way. Either way, good post!
actually, once you have the rear end up on jack stands or a lift, you don't need the jack. the rear suspension just hangs from the shocks--it's already unloaded. do one side at a time and you should be fine.
 
#25 ·
Yeah, golden_chicken is right.
Jacking up the middle of the axle is putting weight on the springs & you wouldn't be able to get them out

One you have the rear on jackstands (in front of the axle) there is no weight on the rear suspension/springs....then it takes 5-10 minutes to do the rear springs.

I did both sides at the same time:

Undo the upper shock bolt on each side....push down (or kick, if needed) on the rear axle on each side to get the stock spring out....now the whole rear lower axle is dangling/swinging down.....pull the stock springs out....swap the stock plastic pieces to the new springs....put the new springs in place & then put a jack under the lower axle on one side to help line up the shock bolt with the shock & tighten it down....repeat for the other side.....take the rear off jackstands

Can't get any easier, except if you had a lift
 
#26 ·
snobrdrdan said:
Yeah, golden_chicken is right.
Jacking up the middle of the axle is putting weight on the springs & you wouldn't be able to get them out

One you have the rear on jackstands (in front of the axle) there is no weight on the rear suspension/springs....then it takes 5-10 minutes to do the rear springs.

I did both sides at the same time:

Undo the upper shock bolt on each side....push down (or kick, if needed) on the rear axle on each side to get the stock spring out....now the whole rear lower axle is dangling/swinging down.....pull the stock springs out....swap the stock plastic pieces to the new springs....put the new springs in place & then put a jack under the lower axle on one side to help line up the shock bolt with the shock & tighten it down....repeat for the other side.....take the rear off jackstands

Can't get any easier, except if you had a lift
Yah, but once you do get it lowered, the lift is useless. I had a friend who got turned away by three repair shops because they couldn't get his car on the lift arms because it was too low. It's not like he slammed the car or anything. Just a modest drop.