How to install lowering springs
Tools Needed:
- 19mm socket
- 18mm socket
- Ratchet or Breaker Bar
- Jack
- Jack Stands
- Torque Wrench
- Blocks for wheels
- Hacksaw or Razor Blade
NOTE: I used the Progress springs on my install.
Before:
Rear:
NOTE: The rear of the car needs to be fully in the air with no weight/pre load on the suspension!! (A hoist/lift would come in handy, but this CAN be done in your driveway)
1. Block the front wheels so the car can't roll!!!!
2. Jack up the rear & have on jackstands
3. Remove the rear wheels using the 19mm socket
4. Locate the 18mm upper shock bolt
5. Undo the 18mm upper shock bolt (using a jack under the rear control arm helps to remove it easier)
6. Remove the jack (if you used it).......Now you should be able to press down (or kick, if needed) to release the spring (it WILL NOT shoot out at you)
7. Now you can wiggle/pull the stock spring from the bottom mount of the rear control arm & this is what you have
8. This is what the stock spring looks like. You will have to transfer the top & bottom plastic pieces to your new spring (they snap right in/out).
NOTE: If you need to cut the bump stops per instructions or something (which I DIDN'T, but this is when you would do it). Probably only need to trim the rear bumpstops if you're installing the Sprint springs (trim 1/2" per zfactor).
9. After you've transferred the stock plastic pieces to your new spring, now you can slide it into the lower rear control arm
10. Line the top up spring insert as well, then use a floor jack under the control arm to line up the rear shock to the upper mounting point (gotta jiggle it left or right), & then insert the bolt and tighten it down
11. Torque down to specs!
12. Repeat for the other side
13. GET AN ALIGNMENT!!!!!!
Enjoy!!!
Torque Specs: Thanks to WopOnTour
Ball Joint to Control Arm Nut and Bolts 68 N·m 50 lb ft
Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut
First Pass- 50 N·m (37 lb ft)
Reverse Nut- 3/4 turn
Second Pass-50 N·m + 30° (37 lb ft + 30°)
Control Arm to Front Frame Bolts- 66 N·m (49 lb ft)
Control Arm to Rear Frame Bolts- 100 N·m + 180° ( 74 lb ft + 180°)
Frame to Chassis Bolts- 100 N·m + 180° (74 lb ft + 180°)
Intermediate Shaft Pinch Bolt- 34 N·m (25 lb ft)
Stabilizer Link to Strut Nut- 110 N·m (81 lb ft)
Stabilizer Shaft Clamp Bolt- 50 N·m (37 lb ft)
Stabilizer Shaft Link to Stabilizer Bar Nut- 110 N·m (81 lb ft)
Strut Assembly to Steering Knuckle Nut- 120 N·m (89 lb ft)
Strut Cap Screws- 14 N·m (124 lb in)
Strut Cap to Body Nut- 110 N·m (81 lb ft)
Strut Shaft Nuts- 70 N·m (52 lb ft)
Tie Rod to Knuckle Nut- 60 N·m (44 lb ft)
Transmission Mount Through Bolt- 100 N·m (74 lb ft)
Transmission Mount to Frame Bolt- 50 N·m (37 lb ft)
Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly Mounting Bolts- 115 N·m (85 lb ft)
Tools Needed:
- 19mm socket
- 18mm socket
- Ratchet or Breaker Bar
- Jack
- Jack Stands
- Torque Wrench
- Blocks for wheels
- Hacksaw or Razor Blade
NOTE: I used the Progress springs on my install.
Before:

Rear:
NOTE: The rear of the car needs to be fully in the air with no weight/pre load on the suspension!! (A hoist/lift would come in handy, but this CAN be done in your driveway)
1. Block the front wheels so the car can't roll!!!!
2. Jack up the rear & have on jackstands

3. Remove the rear wheels using the 19mm socket

4. Locate the 18mm upper shock bolt

5. Undo the 18mm upper shock bolt (using a jack under the rear control arm helps to remove it easier)

6. Remove the jack (if you used it).......Now you should be able to press down (or kick, if needed) to release the spring (it WILL NOT shoot out at you)

7. Now you can wiggle/pull the stock spring from the bottom mount of the rear control arm & this is what you have

8. This is what the stock spring looks like. You will have to transfer the top & bottom plastic pieces to your new spring (they snap right in/out).
NOTE: If you need to cut the bump stops per instructions or something (which I DIDN'T, but this is when you would do it). Probably only need to trim the rear bumpstops if you're installing the Sprint springs (trim 1/2" per zfactor).

9. After you've transferred the stock plastic pieces to your new spring, now you can slide it into the lower rear control arm

10. Line the top up spring insert as well, then use a floor jack under the control arm to line up the rear shock to the upper mounting point (gotta jiggle it left or right), & then insert the bolt and tighten it down

11. Torque down to specs!
12. Repeat for the other side
13. GET AN ALIGNMENT!!!!!!
Enjoy!!!

Torque Specs: Thanks to WopOnTour
Ball Joint to Control Arm Nut and Bolts 68 N·m 50 lb ft
Ball Joint to Steering Knuckle Nut
First Pass- 50 N·m (37 lb ft)
Reverse Nut- 3/4 turn
Second Pass-50 N·m + 30° (37 lb ft + 30°)
Control Arm to Front Frame Bolts- 66 N·m (49 lb ft)
Control Arm to Rear Frame Bolts- 100 N·m + 180° ( 74 lb ft + 180°)
Frame to Chassis Bolts- 100 N·m + 180° (74 lb ft + 180°)
Intermediate Shaft Pinch Bolt- 34 N·m (25 lb ft)
Stabilizer Link to Strut Nut- 110 N·m (81 lb ft)
Stabilizer Shaft Clamp Bolt- 50 N·m (37 lb ft)
Stabilizer Shaft Link to Stabilizer Bar Nut- 110 N·m (81 lb ft)
Strut Assembly to Steering Knuckle Nut- 120 N·m (89 lb ft)
Strut Cap Screws- 14 N·m (124 lb in)
Strut Cap to Body Nut- 110 N·m (81 lb ft)
Strut Shaft Nuts- 70 N·m (52 lb ft)
Tie Rod to Knuckle Nut- 60 N·m (44 lb ft)
Transmission Mount Through Bolt- 100 N·m (74 lb ft)
Transmission Mount to Frame Bolt- 50 N·m (37 lb ft)
Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly Mounting Bolts- 115 N·m (85 lb ft)